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May 1-4, 2004
July 4th , 1804
"Came to on the L.S to refresh out selves & Joseph Fields got
bit by a snake,
which was quickly doctoered with Bark by Cap. Lewis. Passed
a Creek 12 yds wide
on the L.S comeing out of an extensive Prarie reching within 200 yards
of the river,
as this Creek has no name, and this day being the 4th of july the day
of the independence of
the U.S. call it 4th of July 1804 Creel, we dined on Corn Capt. Lewis
walked on shore above this Creek
and discovered a high Mound from the top of which he had an extensive
View, 3 paths concentering at the mound
Saw great numbers of Goslings to day which were nearly grown, the before
mentioned lake is clear and contain great quantities
of fish and Gee & Goslings" Wm Clark (At present day Atchison
Kansas)
July 9, 1804
"Camped at a point on the L.S opposite the head of the Island,
our party was incamped on the Opposite side, their not answering
our signals caused us to suspect the persons camped opposite to us was
a War party of Soux" Wm Clark (Near Present Wolf River KS)
| Sunday May 2- Between St. Joseph and Atchison. What was once an island in the middle of the Missouri comprising of about 8000 acres according to William Clark in his journal the Nodaway River empties near what was once the head of the island. Today the land is not divided by the river but forms one main channel. I saw two men standing on shore just below where the Nodaway empties in the Missouri. I approached in my boat and yelled up to them asking if there was a place to get some drinking water. The wind was blowing rather briskly and they yelled back saying that they could not understand me. I paddled up to the dock and repeated my question. They motioned to come on up which I did carrying two empty gallon jugs for water. A dozen camper trailers lined the shore and smoke from the nearby fire dispersed quickly into the wind. About eight friends greeted me with a hot cup of coffee. Gary & Diane Wade and their friends come every weekend to camp and have a good time on their boats and to spend time around the fire at the rivers edge. I told them about my trip and they brought up a story or two of others in the past that were paddling the riverand had stopped too. They said a man and his daughter camped there and were traveling the entire river a few years back.  Unfortunately I didn't write everyone's name down but one woman called the local Channel 2 News people who were very interested in an interview. I told the news people on the phone I would meet them downstream in an hour or so once I left "Camp Nodaway". Every 15 minutes a micro blast storm would blow through pelting us with wind and hail. After my second cup of coffee I headed out but was tempted to stay near the warm fire. After an hour of paddling I began to watch for the Channel 2 News women on shore. I was to meet her at the Sunset Grille but since I'd never been there I had to keep my eyes focused on the shore for the Grille. I soon spotted the tripod and camera and pulled my boat in near the boat ramp. The interview was rather challenging since another wicked blast of hail and wind forced us to retreat inside the restaurant where we finished the interview. I'm not very comfortable with "on the spot" questions but did my best. I appreciated the exposure for my journey and hoped maybe my story will get people excited for the upcoming Lewis & Clark Bicentennial which will be huge here in St. Joe. I paddled through town without stopping since there is no easy access from the river. Since the days of Lewis and Clarks passing many major historic events have taken place here. The early pioneers departed in covered wagons heading out on the Mormon and Oregon Trail. Galloping horses headed west-carrying bags of mail on the Pony Express trail. What will another100 years bring to the speed of communication and transportation? This past Friday (April 30) I arrived in Rulo, Nebraska before the Post Office closed at 4pm. My girlfriend DeeDee had shipped two weeks worth of  food there the week before. Since
I was delayed early in the week due to weather I was really hoping
to getto Rulo on Friday or I would be forced to wait till Monday in order to pick up my package.  Rulo is a very small town. There is only 3 businesses
besides the Post Office, all bar & grills. The population is not more than 100 and comprises of mostly retired farmers and railroad workers. Rulo was once a busy riverboat community in another era almost forgotten. I set up my camp at the town boat ramp for the night. I grabbed a quick bite at the Ole Time Saloon, which is more of a restaurant than a saloon. It was also the entire towns meeting place for dinner that night. As new people entered in from the street, they would obviously give me a second look as I'm sure an unfamiliar face eating in "their" restaurant surprised them. I sat at the bar drinking several cups of coffee with the bartender who goes by the name of Babe. His blaze orange shirt would sometimes distract me from his wise cracks and stories about the town fights that took place years ago. Babe took an early retirement to take care of his father who was ill at the time and now works part time for the three ladies who own the place. Upon receiving my new shipment of food, it took a little extra time trying to make it fit into my food bags. I still quite a bit left over and there was not a lot of room for the new items. Grains, pasta shells, nuts, jerky and soup mixes can be very bulky taking up valuable space in my already packed boat. After a week of consuming what I brought I will discover plenty of new spaces only to be filled again at my next, food drop. The large sandbar I am camped on is also the resting place for piles of driftwood. When the water is high the trees and logs get washed get washed down from above only to get hung up on the shallow areas downstream. The further I get into the state the more mud I am again encountering. Between the waters edge and the dry sand there is a section of about 10 feet of mud to wade through, often deep! Many bird and animal tracks are encased in the mud and will soon disappear after the next high water or rain. Tracks of the Great Blue Heron, Canada goose, Beaver, Raccoon, and human make their mark in the dark gray mud. With the constant exposure to mud, blowing sand, river water and dampness my clothes are in need of washing. Sometimes my daily goals are simple. On Monday it is to find a laundry in Atchison, Kansas. Atchison is home to the "Atchison-Topeka-Santa Fe" railroad and aviator Amelia Earhart.  |
May 5-8, 2004
May 5th
The past week was like paddling through the history books. Each town with
its own story. In Atchison, KS I stopped for a brief visit at Amelia
Earhart's birthplace perched high overlooking the Missouri. Whatever
happened to her we will probably never know. Leavenworth, KS I
passed along the famed military prison used for years to house those
military criminals.
As I plodded along the silt laden river under humid skies, I had thought
of Mark Twain piloting a steam paddle wheeler dreaming up stories of
his own. It was very humid yesterday and in the high 80's.
I was feeling very tired from the heat and not too thrilled about paddling
but pressed on regardless. I reached the site of Fort Osage and climbed
the high bluff. This fort was constructed in 1808 on orders of William
Clark a few years after he returned from his expedition.
The people were all dressed in cloths of the early 1800's
and for a moment I felt I too had stepped back a couple of centuries,
only to realize I was still wearing my hot life jacket and rubber boots.
I have made quick time to Lexington, Mo a nice little town with 1800's
style buildings. Lexington was the site of the 1861 Civil War battle
called "Battle of the Hemp Bales" in which the south won and
gained control of the Missouri River.
A confederate cannonball is still lodged into the tall pillars of the
country courthouse just like it was placed there by a southern soldier.
I should arrive in Boonville about Monday the 10th. The weather is suppose
to hold until Sunday when rain is expected. More soon.
Norm
| June 19, 1804 " I observed on the shore Goose & Rasp berrries in abundance in passing some hard water round a point of rocks on the L.S. we were obliged to take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile, we came too on the L.S. near a lake of the sircumfrance of severla miles, situated on the L.S . about two miles from the river this lake is said to abound in all kinds of fowls, great numbers of deer frequent this lake dureing summer season, and feed on the bows" Lewis June 19, 1804 "passed a creek on the L. Side Called Tabboe 15 yds wide… we came too on the L.S. near a Lake of the sircumfrance of several miles, situated on the L.S. about t wo miles from the river this lake is said to abound in all finds of fowls..." Wm Clark (Present Tabo Creek and Hicklin Lake, MO) June 20th, 1804 "My servent York nearly loseing an eye by a man throwing sand in it..." Wm Clark " We took some loner observations, which detaind us until 1 oclcok a butiful night but the air exceedingly damp, & the Mosquiters verry troublesome" June 21, 1804 Two men sent out to hunt this evening brought in a buck and a por turkey." Wm Clark June 24, 1804 "Passed the mouth of a creek 20 yds. wide named Hay Cabin Creek from the Camps of Straw built on it" Wm. Clark (Present day Little Blue River) June 27th, 1804 "a fair morning, the river rose a little last night, we determine to delay at this place three to four days to make observations & recruit the party, several men out hunting, onloaded our Perogue, and turned her up to dry with a view of reparing her after completing a strong redoubt or brest work from one river to the other, of logs & bushes six feet high, The Country about the mouth of this river is verry fine on each side as well as North of the Mossourie" Wm. Clark (Present day mouth of Kansas River and Kansas City) June 28th, 1804 "This river receves its name from a nation which dwells at this time on its banks & has 2 villages one about 20 leagues & the other 40 Leagues up, those Indians are not very noumerous at this time, reduced by war with their neighbors" Wm. Clark (Present site of Kansas City) June 29th, 1804 "Ordered- A Court Martiall will set this day at 11 oclock, to consist of five members, for the trial of John Collins and Hugh Hall, Confined on Charges exhibited against them by Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the articles of War. John Potts to act as judge advocate. The Court Convened agreeable to order and preceeded to the trail of the Prisoners Viz John Collins Charged 'with getting drunk on his post this Morning out of whiskey put under his charge as a Sentinal, and for Suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the said Barrle intended for the pary.' To this charge the prisoner plead not guilty. The Court after mature deliberation on the evidence adduced etc, are of oppinion that the prisoner is guilty of the charged exhibit against him, and do therefore sentence him to receive one hundred lashes on his bear back." Wm. Clark |
May 6th, 2004
How many miles do I travel each day? That question comes up quite often from
people along the river. I average about 6-7 miles every hour. So if
I paddle a 6-hour day then I should cover about 36 miles. I have been
paddling closer to 45
on average with one day covering 60 miles. Once I complete the section
from Yankton, S.D., to Boonville,it will be on slower water for over
a month. Most of the Missouri River through the Dakotas is more like
a lake than a river. The water held back by the hydroelectric dams is
often several miles wide, very deep and without any current.
The maps (charts) I have been using are the U.S. Army Corp. of Engineers
Navigational Charts. They contain probably too much information for
a lone paddlers like myself but are ideal for a big boat especially
the tugs which travel the river. Each map covers a distance of about
8 river miles. I often use 6-8 maps a day for the section I paddle.
These charts show the main channel, which usually has the fastest current.
They also show the "wing dikes" (my good friends). Everyone
is listed. What I like about this fact is that usually on the inside
of every river bend, and behind or below each dike is usually a sand
bar sometimes large enough for my tent. Many however are too muddy,
underwater, or the ground is too uneven.
The water behind these dikes is always lacking any current and they
protect my camp area from any wakes created by other boats especially
the big tugs. These sand bars are sort of like having your own personal
lagoon and beach to camp on. I also have with me a set of reconstructed
maps drawn by William Clark. These maps also show Clarks compass bearings
and miles traveled. Martin Plamondon compiled this set of maps. I have
several examples on the "maps" page of this web site.
The river has changed its course many times since Lewis and Clark passed
through. The Army Corp. Of Engineers have also restricted the rivers
natural desire to meander. What I like about Plamondon's maps it
that they show the general area where the expedition set up each of
their camps. In many places, L&C camps are now far from water. I
am typing this from what was called the "Rope Camp" in the
Lewis and Clark Journals. They stayed here several days starting on
June 17th, 1804. The river actually flowed a little more to the west
of where I am.
The members of the expedition spent several day making rope (600 feet)
as well as 20 new oars for their boats. They mention that the ticks
and mosquitoes were bad. I have found several ticks crawling around
and a few mosquitoes too so far.
I place my maps that I use for each days travel in a clear flat map
case. I then set them directly in front of me on the floor of my boat
so that I can glance down to see where I am. The rest of the maps are
stored away in waterproof bags to be used later in the week. I do not
need a compass to aid in navigation. In fact I could probably paddle
almost the entire river without a map. It is very straightforward. Remember,
the L&C Expedition did not have any maps of the route to the Pacific.
They made their own as they went.
I made it past Kansas City yesterday. It started out to be challenging
when I encountered 3 barges within 10 minutes. Once was so loaded with
sand and gravel that it was almost entirely submerged as it passed by
me at over 20 mph leaving a 5-foot wake in its path.
Commercial jets circled overhead waiting their turn to land at the nearby
airport. The highways buzzed with the early morning commuters and the
tall skyscrapers reflected the already too hot sun as I passed under
the Union Pacific Bridge as a 500-ton train clattered overhead. The
Kansas River added its share of water at a 90-degree angle bend in the
Missouri River. It was here that the L&C expedition camped for several
days making lunar observations to determine their latitude.
As I began my day by breaking my sunglasses, I ended it with a snapped
tent pole. Both repaired with duct tape. Tired, warm, and in bed by
9pm. Another hot day in store for tomorrow. Take Care,
Mile 293 Somewhere near Waverly.
       
    |
May 9-12, 2004
June 8, 1804
"passed the Mine River at 9 miles this river is about 70 yards
wide at its mouth and is said to be navigable for Perogues 80 or 90
ms." Wm Clark (Present Lamine River, MO)
June 13, 1804
We set out early passed a round bend to the S.S. and two Creeks called
the round bend Creeks between those two Creeks and behind a small willow
island in the bend is a Prarie in which the Missouries Indians once
lived..." Wm Clark (Near Brunswick, MO)
June 14, 1804
"we passed a creek above the Bluff about 18yds wide, this creek
is called Snake Creek, a bad sand bar just below, which we found difficullty
in passing & Campd above." Wm Clark (Near Miami, MO)
June 19, 1804
"passed a creek on the L. Side Called Tabboe 15 yds wide...; we
came too on the L.S. near a Lake of the sircumfrance of several miles,
situated on the L.S. about two miles from the river this lake is said
to abound in all finds of fowls..."
Wm Clark (Present Tabo Creek and Hicklin Lake, MO)
June 20th, 1804
"My servent York nearly loseing an eye by a man throwing sand in
it..." Wm Clark
" We took some loner observations, which detaind us until 1 oclcok
a butiful night but the air exceedingly damp, & the Mosquiters verry
troublesome" Wm Clark
June 21, 1804
Two men sent out to hunt this evening brought in a buck and a por turkey."
Wm Clark
June 19, 1804
" I observed on the shore Goose & Rasp berrries in abundance
in passing some hard water round a point of rocks on the L.S. we were
obliged to take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile,
we came too on the L.S. near a lake of the sircumfrance of severla miles,
situated on the L.S. about two miles from the river this lake is said
to abound in all kinds of fowls,
great numbers of deer frequent this lake dureing summer season, and
feed on the bows" Lewis
May 9th
| Under temperatures in the high 80's and 90% humidity I put my mind and
body on autopilot as I glided downstream towards Glasgow, Mo. Sixty seven miles and 11 hours from my previous night's camp I limped into town about 6p.m. A very difficult day but one highlighted by two interesting encounters. As I paddled away from the sandbar I had spent the night on and staying fairly close to shore in the fast current, I spotted movement next to the waterline. I couldn't believe what I was seeing. There, casually walking along the rocks sniffing out signs of fresh deer was a mountain lion (sometimes called cougar or puma). I had no idea there were any in Missouri, and have never seen one in the wilds before. I steered my boat closer to shore trying not to make a sound. I was as close as 50 feet of the big cat without it ever knowing I was there until I drifted upwind where it picked up my scent. I had watched it for about 30 seconds wishing I could get my camera, but for fear my movement would shorten my sighting, I sat there motionless. Personally this animal is one of my favorites. I drifted past for several minutes before it sunk in what I had just seen. As I paddled mile after mile in the intense sun I was once again moving with the fast current within 20 feet of shore when suddenly I spotted another "cat'! T his sighting dumbfounded me, not because it was my 2nd for the day but by its appearance. This large cat had big brown spots around its face and underside. It resembled a leopard in Africa. A few things instantly ran through my mind. "Is it a domestic cat? Do some mountain lions have spots? Was it a bobcat? Did a cat escape from a circus?" It was extremely large to be a domestic cat but the spots made me confused. It was the exact same shape as the one I saw earlier but about 20 pounds lighter. (The first was about the size of a large Labrador dog and the other a little lighter) It had short tight woven hair like a leopard (or mountain lion). I was only 30 feet from it and didn't move while the current carried me past this docile animal. When it finally saw me it sort of turned its body in a twisted form the way a dog does when you hit it with a newspaper. I could see its big brown eyes staring my in the face. I was close enough to both cats to easily see they had very long whiskers. It finally ran up the bank in cat like form disappearing over the top of the bank. When I got to Glasgow I inquired about "wild cats" in the area and several people mentioned they are often seen in the area I passed through. They also said the Missouri Fish and Game does not want to admit they exist in the state. I plan to look into this matter more especially regarding the spots. The country in which I have been traveling through the last day was very abundant in wildlife for the members of the Corp of Discovery. Both deer and black bear were killed providing the members with plenty of meat. The tracks of the deer are by far more numerous today than an actual sighting. My camp in Glasgow is situated on  Stump Island. Lewis and Clark mentioned this island in
the journal and that there were many petrified stumps when they
passed through in June of 1804. Many of the solid rock stumps are still visible and situated where the town has their soccer fields. I stood and watched young children kicking the soccer ball towards t he defended net while wondering what Lewis and Clark thought of when seeing these ancient tree stumps turned to stone over time. I soon will be in Boonville having covered the first 800 miles of the Missouri River. There will be a slight delay in my updates while my friend Stan Hanson drives me back to Yankton, S.D. From there I will paddle up the remaining 1500 miles to Dillon, MT. Jamie Robinson with Corecomm who has been helpful in posting my information on the web site will be away for a few days towards the end of the week. I hope to send one briefer update from Boonville and then continue them again in about a week.  I'm looking forward to
the Dakotas as well and my home state of Montana.Norm |
May 10th ,2004
The old steel railroad bridge came into view as I approached Boonville, Mo.
I have mixed feelings about completing the first 800 miles of the Mighty
Missouri. Although I opted to paddle a portion of the river "downstream"
for personal safety reasons, it was all very challenging. I have enjoyed
the people I've met and the quaint towns I have visited
but I am looking forward to reaching Montana by June. Life on the river
can be very boring for most people. Sometimes each bend in the river
looks like the previous one giving you the sense that you are staying
in one place and not making any progress. Other times the heat and humidity
drain you of energy and you find yourself actually nodding off to sleep.
Then there are the wonderful people and towns along the way that distract
you from the difficult moments. I have met many friendly and interesting
people all from different backgrounds. While in Glasgow I met Dan Haskamp
and Sam Audsley who treated me with southern hospitality. Sam has traveled
many parts of the Lewis and Clark trail by canoe and hopes to venture
to Montana for a journey through the Missouri Breaks National Monument
later this summer. I always find ther
e is a connection between people who travel by means of paddle power.
There seems to be a sense of appreciation for the river and the current
that carries you along. Even if you have only met the person for a short
time you are able to connect by just talking about the river and paddling.
I am sure that members of the Lewis and Clark expedition all shared
this similar connection. Even through there were many different personalities
and egos, t
hey all shared the common bond of adventure and life on the river.
Dan Haskamp is the owner of Main Street Automotice in the town of Glasgow.
He comes from a large family of 10 kids and knows everyone in town.
I can tell Dan has a deep desire to move west to the mountains while
talking with him. He told me many stories about skiing, backpacking
and paddling out west. Unfortunately Glasgow doesn't provide these
same outdoor opportunities.
I joined Dan one evening for dinner in Fayette about 20 miles away.
It seemed strange to be moving so fast in his car after traveling not
more than 6 mph for the last 7 weeks. The rolling countryside of Missouri
had signs of freshly planted soybean crops. Rows of tilled dirt stretched
out across the horizon. Glasgow has a long history dating back to Lewis
and Clark and later to the Civil War. Union and Confederate troops fought
it out along the hillsides of town and many homes received impacts of
cannonballs
. Dan says you can still see where many of the holes were blown into
the sides of the homes.
Of the 800 miles of river I have seen so far, Glasgow is the first place
where I have seen information of a "River Clean-Up day". A
yellow flyer appeared in the local drugstore asking for volunteers.
They are hoping to get enough people to clean the garbage along the
river before the Lewis and Clark Festival later in June. I hope other
towns do the same although it would be nice if they all did it out of
respect for the river and not just because a special event is approaching.
Hopefully they continue this clean up program on a regular basis. I
had a relaxing day in Glasgow having paddled everyday for the last 10
days. I enjoyed my day off. I departed town under a steady wind in hopes
of making it to Boonville that afternoon. In many places along the river
there was evidence of where the old river channel was before the Army
Corp. Of Engineers created their own route for the river. The river
seemed much more straight and wider than it does today. As I approached
Boonville, my old friends the Canadian Geese and Great Blue Heron greeted
me with many flyovers. The loud honking by the geese brought me out
of the heat induced trance I was in. I was very happy and relieved that
I traveled from Yankton safely.
Monday May 10th: Boonville Public Library. When I have the opportunity
to access a public computer I'll try and use as much time to post an
update. I don't have to worry about batteries on my computer or
satellite phone going dead like I do when sending data from my various
camps along the river. I did a brief radio interview for "Ted B"
who is a local radio show host for an AM station. An approaching storm
forced us to conduct the interview under the bridge over the river giving
us a little shelter from the rain.
My next updates will be from the Dakotas! This is where Lewis and Clark
wintered in the year 1804-1805 living with the Mandan and Hidatsa Indians
during a bitter cold winter. The treeless plains of the Dakotas will
be a stark change compared to the lush green forest of Missouri, Nebraska,
Iowa, and Kansas. The fact that there will be less humidity during the
long summer days is something to look forward to. I can almost here
and see the distant drum beats from the plains Indians, their beat in
unison with each stroke of my paddle as I work my way north and west.
Take Care,
Norm
May 11th Boonville Paper
This message is from BDN news writer that interviewed Norm today for his paper. I will be including his article.
We just had the pleasure of meeting your friend Norm, who rowed up
to our shores yesterday, here in Boonville, Mo.
He is quite an interesting guy and I had the pleasure of interviewing
him for our paper. (I wish my kids had been out of school. They would
have loved to have seen his setup).
Anyway, we ran the story on the front page today. I am attaching the
pdf. I am also attaching the color versions of the two pics I took.
The res. on those is 300.
Pdf Boonville, Missouri Newspaper
Article:here.
May 18-20, 2004
Sept 1, 1804
"proceeded on pass the bluffs compsd of a yellowish red, &
brownish white clay which ia as hard as chalk this bluff is 170 or 180
feet high." Wm Clark (White Bear Cliffs)
Sept 5, 1804
"Set out early the wind blew hard from the south, Goats, turleys
seen today, passed a large Island opsd this Island near the head the
Poncarars River coms into the Missourie from the west this river is
about 30 yards wide." Wm Clark (Ponca River near Vernal S.D.)
Sept 7, 1804
"Discovered a village of small animals that burrow in the grown
killed one and coaught one a live by poreing a great quantity of water
in his hole we attempted to dig to the beds of one of those animals,
after diging 6 feet, found by running a pole down that we were not half
way to his lodge...;" Wm Clark (Near Greenwood S.D.)
Sept 8, 1804
"Came to on the lower point of an island in the midle of the river
called Boat Island and incamped,
jurked the meat killed to day consisting of 2 buffalow, one large buck
elk, one small, 4 deer 3 turkeys & a squirel..." Wm Clark (Near
Fort Randall Dam)
Sept 9th, 1804
"...in the evening after the boat landed, I Derected My Servent York with me to kill a Buffalow near the boat from a Numbr.
Then Scattered in the Plains. I saw at one view near the river at least 500 Buffalow...;" Wm Clark (Near Whetstone Bay-Lake Fransis Case Reservoir)
Sept 10th, 1804
"...on a hill on the L.S. we found the back bone of a fish, 45 feet long tapering to the tale, Some teeth &c those joints were seperated and all Petrefied." Wm Clark
Sept 11th, 1804
"here the man who left us with the horse 22days ago (George Shannon) and has been a head ever since joined us nearly Starved to Death
, he had been 12 days without any thing to eate but Grapes & one Rabit, which he Killed by shooting a piece of hard Stick in place of a ball." Wm Clark
Sept 13, 1804
"Camped on the S. Side under a Bluff. The bluff on the S. S. not so much impregnated with mineral as on the L.S" Wm Clark
|
Tuesday: May 18TH. I'm camped across from where Lewis and
Clark camped on Sept. 6, 1804. The river is totally fogged in
at the moment.
The fog is now lifting. |
May 21-24, 2004
|
South Scalp Creek Bay: |
The stove I use to cook my meals is a one burner Coleman Exponent which
burns white gas. I also have a backup MSR one burner in case the Coleman
fails.
They both are powerful stoves and can boil a quart of water in just
a few minutes. They are both very compact and fit within my cooking
pots and then placed inside a rubberized dry bag. I
have 3 fuel bottles which last about 6-7 weeks before I need to seek
out fuel in some various stores along the way. I typically fire up the
stove when I reach camp each evening and then set up my tent while the
food is cooking.
All my meals are 1-pot meals all high calories. I rotate between rice,
pasta, and beans for the main part and always add vegetables such as
broccoli, zucchini, squash, carrots, onions, corn, and peas which I
dehydrated on a food dehydrator prior to the trip.
I add various dehydrated sauces and or soup mixes to add flavor and
bulk.
I typically eat about two quarts of food each evening. Other foods I
have with me for breakfast and snacks are whole grain cereals, raisins,
dates, prunes, assorted nuts, turkey and buffalo jerky, sardines, energy
bars from Betty Lou's Inc., dried apples and various fruit roll-ups.
I do have access to store and restaurants along the way. This is not
a remote wilderness as it was in the days of Lewis and Clark. There
are over 200 towns and cities along the route some with populations
well over a million people such as Kansas City and Portland.
The members of the Corp of Discovery relied on hunting and fishing as
well as gathering of native food shown to them by Indian Nations along
the way. Each member consumed over 9 lbs. of meat per day on average.
They divided their camps into "messes" which were smaller
units of men (about 8-9) each with a cook.
Each mess had their own particular area to cook and prepare food as
well as there own fire to cook it all. They did not have stoves, water
filters, lighters, or a wide selection of food as I do two hundred years
later. Since there is so much humidity and moisture in and around the
water I have to make sure my dried foods do not become moldy which can
be a problem.
I have not had any so far but it could happen. I carry two weeks of
food with me at a time. I purchase the rest in store and I receive a
shipment from home every two weeks which I pick up at a local post office.
Here is a note from people that have met Norm and sent in pictures and comments
Jamie,
Here is a picture of Norm taken on 5/22/04 at approx. 7:00 pm. It's
taken at campsite #18 Buryanek Recreational Area in south central South
Dakota. The day was rainy, windy and cold and I think Norm was thankful
to spend the evening at our camp having supper (grilled brats and burgers),
my mother-in-law's homemade chocolate cookies and some conversation.
He's pictured here left to right with my father-in-law Stanley Ostgren
of Fairbury, NE, and my brother-in-law and sister-in-law, Ed and Becky
Bartling, of Burke SD. Every year our family spends the weekend before
Memorial Day at the river fishing. We all enjoyed visiting with Norm
and hearing about his adventure. We'll be watching the website to
follow his progress.
Sincerely,
Mary Ostgren
Sioux Falls, SD
May 25-27, 2004
UPDATE: Chamberlain SD, Tuesday
The weather can either destroy your spirits (and tent) or it makes you
appreciate the warmth of home and a cozy fire in the fireplace. South
Dakota has experienced more rain than usual this past week and I had
the pleasure to paddle in most of it. I personally can't imagine
what Lewis and Clark had to deal with since they did not have the quality
clothing and gear that we have today. Yesterday I limped into Chamberlain,
S.D having paddled 20 miles from below the White River. The winds were
out of the east, west, northwest, and north. There was a constant shift
in the wind, at times forming whitecaps on the wide river.
I stayed fairly close to shore, often no more than 30 feet which allowed
me to paddle to shore in case of a sudden squall. I have been storm
bound about every other day the past 10 days.
This past weekend I had the pleasure to meet and camp with Dr. Marv
Braun and Dr. Ben Stukel at Snake Creek, S.D.
After paddling a long eight hours I arrived at camp where they treated
me to steaks, potatoes, and beans! I was in heaven.
It wasn't more than an hour later when an incredible storm blew
though with tornado winds and rain.
I found out the next day several places were hit with softball size
hail and funnel clouds were spotted! I thought for sure several of the
motor homes were going to get blown over from the intense winds.
Thanks to Dr. Braun from Gregory, S.D. he brought along his portable
chiropractors table to give me a much need adjustment. The toll of long
hours and repetitive motion can really
cause your back and hip to get out of alignment. After each adjustment
I have had on this trip, I have felt relief almost instantly.
(Thanks Dr. Braun, Stukel and Vern for the great feast. I was glad
to see that your camper trailer did not
get blown over by the tornado winds that ripped through the area. I
had heard stories about all your other
windy storm experiences. Norm
!)
Article:
Chiropractic along the Lewis & Clark Trail by Marv Braun with photos.
The hills to the north are as green as the fields of Ireland due to
the increased amount of rain in the area. As I paddle more northward
and westerly, the trees are becoming fewer. It was in this area that
the youngest member of the Lewis and Clark party rejoined the expedition
after having been lost for almost two weeks. George Shannon survived
on very little and
nearly starved to death when the expedition found him. It was also in
these hills that the party had been informed of a "volcano".
None were discovered, but I managed to encounter a tiny hot spring bubbling
out of the hillside. It reminded me of some of the thermal features
found in Yellowstone. Could this be where the "rumor" of a
volcano started I wondered as I explored the hillsides?
North of Snake Creek I found a sheltered bay where several people were
fishing despite the weather conditions. Ed Bartling along with Stan
Ostgren was patiently waiting for a bite on their fish hook when I paddled
to shore. They were camped for the weekend along with their families
and were kind enough to invite me up to their camp for a cookout,
which I gladly accepted. Ed is a former center for the football team
in Vermillion, S.D. and now is a farmer nearby. In his youth, Ed claims
he found a human skull on an old island in the river that was probably
from a Native American. Ed says that the Army Corp. of Engineers drained
the lake (dammed river) years again exposing a lot of the old islands
that
Lewis and Clark mentioned in their journals. Looking at the hillsides
I can easily imagine the Sioux burying their dead in many sacred places
along the river. With all the rain the lake levels should come up which
will help the farmers from the drought they are experiencing.
Monday I paddled all day in the wind and rain. At one point I had to
retreat to shore and let the wind and rain die down. I was totally wet
but not from rain. Paddling a kayak into the strong wind, can cause
one to perspire a great deal.
I was in sight of Chamberlain for about 3 hours before I was able to
pull into shore at American Creek Campground.
The sun broke out from under the dark clouds as I exited my boat for
the evening.
Even though I have days that totally discourage me and beat me down,
I try to maintain a clear vision of what my goal is. I live for the
moment and try not to think about the "big picture" or I would
be overwhelmed. One day at a time and one paddle stoke at a time is
my motto. I have lost many days due to weather and will attempt to make
up mileage as the weeks unfold.
To do this I will need to paddle a few extra miles each day and take
advantage of paddling when the water is calm and that means paddling
late evenings and early mornings.
I am hoping to make it to Pierre, S.D. by Friday to pick up my "food
drop" at the post office. If I don't, unfortunately I will
have to wait till the following Tuesday to get it since there is a holiday
this weekend. This will put me behind even further.
Sorry No photos this update! Due to the increased rain and humidity
I don't dare use my personal laptop for sending data.
Thanks to the Chamberlain Public Library I am able to send this update.
Lewis and Clark would be jealous if they knew how quick it is to send
a message across the country.
Take Care
Norm
Sept 15, 1804
Set out early passed the mouth of White River. Cap. Lewis and my self
went up this river a short distance and crossed...;"
Wm Clark
Sept 16,1804
""...we sent three hunters out who soon added eight deer and
two Buffalo to our stock of provisions: the Buffalo were so pour that
we took only the tongues skins and marrow bones..." M. Lewis
Sept 17,1804
"...found the country in every direction for about three miles
intersected with deep revenes and steep irregular hills of 100 to 200
feet high; at the tops of these hills the
country breakes off as usual into a fine leveal plain extending as far
as the eye can reach." M Lewis (Near Chamberlain S.D.)
| Update- Wednesdays evening near Big Bend. I reached Big Bend Dam and Lake
Sharpe by mid afternoon on Wednesday. My portage around took nearly
three hours using my wheeled portage cart. This collapsible cart is placed under the center of my boat and all my gear is then placed in the boat over the wheels to insure a proper balance. I then pull the cart like a child's wagon up and over the dam and down the road to the boat ramp. This usually turns a few heads in the process. The last night in Chamberlain, I was invited to dinner with Dr. Tyler Hammel and family at a nearby restaurant. Tyler is a local chiropractor who offered his help with yet another back adjustment during the day. That evening his wife Jenna and children Alex, Benji, and Madyson treated me to a nice dinner. It was nice not to have to put my stove together, prepare, cook dinner, and clean up. Their three children were the nicest and most polite kids I think I have ever met. It was a pleasant evening talking with them about school, and life in Chamberlain. In the lobby of the hotel where we ate was a huge Marlin fish that Tyler caught and had it mounted. It was too large to be displayed at his home or office so he was fortunate enough to have it displayed in the lobby. Thanks Dr. Hammel and family for the wonderful hospitality while passing through! The people I've met along the way have been extremely helpful, nice, and generous towards me. I really appreciate the kindness of all those along the trail. 
Photo Above: Madyson, Alex, and Benji Hammel of Chamberlain, S.D. These great kids and their nice parents were kind to buy me dinner during my visit to their area. Thanks also for the chiropractic back adjustment! I will pass through the "Big Bend" of the Missouri tomorrow. It is here that the river makes a giant 25 mile loop almost doubling back on its self. The distance across at the narrowest part is just over a mile. The scenery is now sparse of any trees. It was in this area the Lewis and Clark encountered their first Antelope and Magpie and also vast herds of buffalo. The buffalo suppliedthe men with needed food in which they dried. Now only the spirit of the buffalo roams the hills while the distant rumble of thunder reminds me of the sound of large herds of these animals. I hope to make it to Pierre, S.D. by friday and on towards the huge body of water called Oahe. Norm |
   |
Dear Jamie
just a note to ask you to send my personal best along to Norm. When
Norm was in high school, he worked for me at my canoe livery here in
Grayling on the AuSable River.
I have seen him several years since as he comes back home to be
here for the annual Au Sable canoe race the last full weekend of July
each year----a very big event.
I will send a note ahead to one of his post office drops just to let
him know I am following.
Just remembered his trip as one of our citizens wrote a letter to the
paper reminding us Norm is out there and giving the web site.
I have printed all of his journals off and will be catching up with
him tonight.
Please let Norm know how proud of him I am and how interested I am in
the trip.
I am sure many others will be following now that we have been reminded
and know the web page. Hang in there Norm, continue the trip and look
forward to seeing you home for the race again in the future.
My best-----Joe (Jolly Redskin) Wakeley
Dear Joe- Thanks for the kind words
of encouragement and nice to hear you are following along.
If it wasn't for growing up in Grayling and spending time on the AuSable,
I'm not sure I would be out
here on the Missouri River. I have many fond memories working for you
at the canoe livery. It was a
great job and allowed me to be as close to the water as possible. Thanks
again!
Norm
Hello
Just a few pics to pass along of Norm and his stop here at Snake Creek
(25 miles northeast of Gregory South Dakota). Myself (Dr. Stukel), Dr.Braun,
and Vernon Kerner met up with Norm at a campground on Snake Creekon
Friday 5-21-04. We cooked him a big dinner of steak, potatoes, beans,
and even a corona!
We also gave Norm a free chiropractic treatment right there at the campground.
Norm was planning to leave for Chamberlain (35 miles North of Snake
Creek) on Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning. We've had some bad
weather the last few days so I am not sure he will make Chamberlain
before Wednesday.
He wanted me to pass along some pics of his stop here. He also asked
that I tell you that all is well and he is in good health.
Today we published an article in the local paper on Norm and his expedition
(Gregory Times Advocate). We also set up an interview with a local radio
station that covers this area. (Lake Francis Case and Lake Oahe areas).
It was a pleasure to visit with Norm while he was in our area. Please
tell him hello for us.
Ben Stukel D.C. 
May 28-31, 2004
| Update Coming Soon |
