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June 1-4, 2004
| Sept 19, 1804 "...a creek about 10 yards wide Coms in passing thro a plain in which great quantities of the Prickley Pear grows, I call this Creek Prickly Pear Creek…it is situated at the Commencement of what is Called & Known by the Grand de Tortu or Big Bend of the Missourie". Wm Clark Sept 20, 1804 "I walked on Shore with a view of examening this bend crossed at the Narost part which is a high irregular hills of about 180 or 190 feet, this place the gouge of the bend is 1 Mile & a quarter from river to river or across, from this high land which is only in the Gouge, the bend is a Butiful Plain thro which I walked, Saw numbers of Buffalow & Goats, I saw a hare & believed he run into a hole in the Side of a hill, he run up this hill which is Small & has several holes on the Side & I could not see him after, I joined the boat in the evening." Wm Clark Sept 21, 1804 "We saw some Campes and tracks of the Seaux which appears to be old, three or four weeks ago, one french-man I fear has got an abscess on his thigh, he Complains verry much we are making every exertion to reliev him." Wm. Clark Sept 23, 1804 "passed a Creek on the S.S. 16 yards wide we Call Reuban Creek, as R. Fields found it. Camped on the S.S. below the mouth of a creek on the L.S. three Souex boys came to us swam the river and inform that the Band of Seauex called the Tetongues or 80 Lodges were Camped at the next Creek above, & 60 Lodges more a short distance above, we gave those boys two Carrots of Tobacco to Carry to their Chiefs, with directions to tell them that we would speek to them tomorrow." Wm Clark (Present day East Medicine Knoll River) Sept 24, 1804 "passed a Island on the S.S. on which we Saw Several Elk, about 1 1/2 Miles long Called Good Humoured Isld. Wm Clark (Site of Present day Pierre S.D.) Sept, 25, 1804 "A fair morning the wind from the S.E. all well, raised a flag staff & made a orning or shade on a sand bar in the mouth of the Teton River, for thepurpose of speeking with the Indians..." Wm Clark Sept 29, 1804 "Saw great numbers of elk at the mouth of a small creek Called No Timber C- as no timber appeared to be on it. Above the mouth of this creek the Panies had a village 5 years ago, no remains but the mound which surround the town." Wm Clark Sept 30, 1804, "Sand bars are so noumerous, that it it impossible to describe them & think it unnesessary to mention them." Wm Clark |
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There are many ways to carry or portage a boat and gear around a dam. I don't suggest doing it the way I did it at Oahe Dam on Saturday, but it sure gets you there in a hurry as well as gets your heart beating faster. I arrived at the east boat ramp below the dam in the afternoon after re-supplying and doing laundry in Ft. Pierre just 6-miles downstream. I had heard that Oahe had a steep grade and was a long three miles over to the upstream boat ramp. I assembled my portage cart and placed my boat and gear inside and headed down the road. The road is fairly flat until the last 1/2 mile, which is very steep, especially pulling a 60-pound boat and at least 200 pounds of gear inside it. The strain on my muscles was intense as I tried to keep everything going in a forward motion. If I stopped, everything would begin to roll backwards down the road. At the point when I thought I may get a hernia, a man pulled up next to me in his truck and told me to jump on the back platform he had built to hold coolers. As I sat down and held the strap connected to my belongings with all my might I had visions of disaster. As he drove the remaining 1/2 mile to the boat ramp at a rate of speed higher than I would have liked, I prayed that the wheels on the cart would hold up to the high speed. I envisioned 300 pounds of camping equipment, cameras, food and boat cartwheeling down the road ending my Lewis and Clark journey. Well, I survived and arrived safe thanking the man for his assistance as he tried to talk me out of paddling on the lake. I told him I had already traveled over 1000 miles and that his shuttle ride was more dangerous than anything I had so far encountered.  I
Photo above: Waiting out the wind "here" on the reservoir. I intended on paddling a few miles but the sun was already setting in the west so I set up camp near the boat ramp glad that I survived my speedy ride. Lake Oahe is a huge body of water extending almost all the way to Bismark, N.D. The lake is over 220 miles long with a total shoreline of over 2 thousand miles! It's a mecca for fishermen and pleasure boaters but is also very isolated with only a couple of towns along its entire length. I was hoping to make it to Bismark by June 8th but have been sitting at camp for three days socked in with high winds and huge waves. As I type the wind is finally dieing down. My arrival to Ft. Pierre on Friday evening was aided by an all day wind at my back pushing me along with every paddle stroke. Plenty of sandbars and submerged forest of trees standing erect like sun bleached totem poles without faces provided plenty of navigational challenges. These trees were once islands and bottomland forest when Lewis and Clark passed through. Now they are the ghostly reminder of the days before the dams flooded the river. Imagine trying to weave in and out of these trees trying not to encounter any that may be hidden inches below the surface of the water. I camped near the mouth of what Lewis and Clark called the Teton River (Now called the Bad R.) The Corp. Of Discovery met here in Council with the Teton Sioux. The Sioux were very aggressive and attempted to steal from the party a well as impede their progress. Constant watch was kept with little sleep among the members of the expedition. A large engraved stone now marks the camp and meeting place with the Sioux. I have reached a point where I have lost all track of time and days. My goals are daily goals. I am trying not to think about the end of the journey but only to a fixed location on my map about 30 miles away each day. I try to pick the route, which will give the most protection from the relentless winds. The wind usually wins out at least a day or two each week, creating huge waves, which can be dangerous for my small craft. Everyone I've talked to say Lake Oahe will force me tent bound at least a few days. Well I've had my "few" days and the weather forecast is not sounding the greatest for the rest of the week. All's well other that the mental game with the weather and knowing I am slowly getting behind with my schedule. I hope I don't have to "leap-frog" ahead to meet up with Gene and Mollie Eastman later this summer when I cross over the divide. They have offered to show me what Gene considers the correct "route" taken by Lewis and Clark over the mountains. Gene has researched it for years and his descriptions match up with that written by William Clark as well as all the compass bearings. I want to dedicate this week's part of the journey to Martin Plamondon who died this past week. Martin had compiled a 3- volume set of maps drawn by William Clark and over laid them with modern topographic maps. I have a set with me which shows all the Lewis and Clark camps and several of Martins maps are posted on this web site. I am glad Martin got to see his hard work come to print. Thanks Martin, I appreciate your hard work. You will be missed. 
Photo: Just another passing tornado over the Dakota plaines. I was rocked by 100mph winds for 15 minutes then it became dead calm. |
June 5-9, 2004
| Oct 1, 1804, "...about 2 miles we passed the River Chien L.S. this river comes in from the S.W. and is about 400 yards wide, the current appears gentle, throwing out but little sand, and appears to throw out but little water the heads of this river is not known a part of the nation of Dog Indians live some distance up this river, the precise distance I cant learn...;" Wm Clark Oct 4, 1804 "Capt. Lewis and 3 men walked on shore & crossed over to an island situated on the S.S. of the current & near the center of the river this Isld is about 1 1/2 miles long & nearly 1/2 as wide, in the center of this island was an old village of the rickeries called La hoo catt it was circular and walled containing 17 lodges and it appears to have been deserted about five years..." Wm Clark (Near where Highway bridge 212 crosses the Missouri) Oct 8, 1804 "passed the mouth of a river called by the Ricares We tar hoo on the L.S. this river is 120 yards, discharging but a small quantity..." Wm Clark (Grand River at Highway bridge 72 at Mobridge S.D) Oct 9, 1804 "much astonsihed at my black servent, who did not lose the opportunity of displaying his powers strength &c &c this nation never saw a black man before" Wm Clark |
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The human skull sat partially covered in the drying mud, eyes
gazing towards the south. I wondered if this may have been a great
warrior or chief as I stood looking out over the large expanse
of water. Declining lake levels have exposed the skull probably
washing away the rest of the bones and covering them with layers
of sand and mud. I was having a challenging day weaving in and out of the thousands
of massive trees also exposed due to the drop in the water when
I decided to climb a small knoll. I was hoping for a better view
of the river ahead and for an easier path through maze of twisted
tree trunks. As I was walking along the sand I glanced down to
what first appeared to be a round rock. I then saw the eye sockets
and knew what it was. The area is a fitting place for a burial
site. Here the land juts out giving one a good view in many directions.
The weathered skull had the appearance of a head injury due to
the large fracture above the eye. Maybe he was a warrior killed
in battle to save his family, or maybe a woman thrown from here
horse out on the plains. |
June 10-14, 2004
Sept 29, 1804
"Saw great numbers of elk at the mouth of a small creek
Called No Timber C- as no timber appeared to be on it. Above the
mouth of this creek the Panies had a village 5 years ago, no
remains but the mound which surround the town." Wm Clark
Sept 30, 1804,
"Sand bars are so noumerous, that it it impossible to
describe them & think it unnesessary to mention them."
Wm Clark
Oct 1, 1804
"...about 2 miles we passed the River Chien L.S. this river comes
in from the S.W. and is about 400 yards wide, the current appears gentle,
throwing out but little sand, and appears to throw out but little water
the heads of this river is not known a part of the nation of Dog Indians
live some distance up this river, the precise distance I cant learn..."
Wm Clark
Oct 4, 1804
"Capt. Lewis and 3 men walked on shore & crossed over to an
island situated on the S.S. of the current & near the center of
the river this Isld is about 1 1/2 miles long & nearly 1/2 as wide,
in the center of this island was an old village of the rickeries called
La hoo catt it was circular and walled containing 17 lodges and it appears
to have been deserted about five years..." Wm Clark (Near where
Highway bridge 212 crosses the Missouri)
Oct 8, 1804
"passed the mouth of a river called by the Ricares We tar hoo on
the L.S. this river is 120 yards, discharging but a small quantity..."
Wm Clark (Grand River at Highway bridge 72 at Mobridge S.D)
Oct 9, 1804
"much astonsihed at my black servent, who did not lose the
opportunity of displaying his powers strength &c &c this
nation never saw a black man before" Wm Clark
| Nine days of wind and waves waiting. |
June 15-17, 2004
Photo: While walking along the shore near the border
of North and South Dakota I spotten this human skull on the sand. Since
the construction of the dam and reservoir the water has flooded many
Native American burial sites causing the ground around them to literally
wash away which was the case. I reported this site to local attorities
but I have my doubts they would ever find it. The torential rains I
experienced the following night probably washed it away of covered it
up.
| UPDATE: Lake Oahe sounds Hawaiian but it's sure far from paradise. I had been wind bound for a total of 9 days on that body of water. Last week it rained about 3 inches in 1/2 and hourcausing the area to flash flood and created massive erosion to the beaches. The rain was coming down so hard that the ground was unable to absorb it fast enough and it rose higher and higher up the sides of my tent wall. It began to undermine the area under my tent as I could tell by the wavy action on my tent floor. In sunk inward like the floor of a rubber raft on a river. I knew I had to take quick action before the water and mud began pouring through the zippers of the tent. I tossed on my rain jacket and grabbed a cook pot from my dinner I had eaten a few hours ago. I frantically began digging trenches around the tent and towards the angled shoreline of the beach in hopes the water would funnel away from the tent. It was actually quit funny at the time. My rain jacket failed to keep me dry and I was standing over ankle deep in mud and water while lightning exploded like fireworks all around me. Several of the jolts sounded like shotgun blast of which I could feel. For a moment I had visions of childhood, playing in the mud puddles near my home in Michigan. After a complete series of trenches were dug around the tent I climbed back in mud and all. I kicked off my muddy sandals and tossed them in the corner along with my soaked rain jacket. I then placed a plastic tarp under my sleeping bag to keep off the water and mud that was inside the tent. I soon began to worry about my boat, which was tied up on shore about 200 feet away. I feared she ended up washed out into the river from the torrent of water pouring down the hillsides. I didn't want to risk going near the water at the time with all the lighting strikes even through I had just spent 20 minutes outside holding a metal pot near a tent comprised mainly of aluminum poles. After the deluge ended, I walked down towards shore shining my light ahead of me. The flowing water and made my route unrecognizable. I shined the light in the area where I thought the boat was but no luck. After a few more steps I could see a glimpse of white and knew she was still tied quip and secure. The rain cover in which I put over the cockpit each night was totally caved inward, keeping several gallons of water from entering my boat. In the morning I filtered this rainwater for drinking thus saving me from having to use the silt laden river water. By morning there was sunshine in the sky so I pulled everything out to dry. I sponged out as much of the dirt and mud from the tent floor as I could and let the rest dry. By noon I was paddling across the river towards the North Dakota border having been storm bound for 3 days at that particular location. I barely made it across the border when the high winds and waves forced me to shore once again. I was glad to be out of South Dakota but had hoped to make it to Ft. Yates to restock my dwindling food supply. Photo Below: The reservoir is so low of water down nearly 50 feet so the old forest that once lined the banks of the river are now once again exposed creating dangerour paddling conditions. This was taken near Ft. Yates. 
I had originally planned to be on the lake only 7 days and it was over 15 days before I finally was off it. I finally walked to Ft. Yates. This is the resting place of Sitting Bull and site of the Standing Rock Indian Reservation. I said walk because that's my latest challenge. There basically is not enough water to navigate since the Army Corp is not releasing much water from the above dam. The water was not more than ankle deep in sections as I pulled my boat across the many sandbars that stretched as far as I could see. It will only get worse as the Army Corp continues to let all the water go to the lower river and not hold any in reserve. Talking with several people in town, they had to ration their drinking water, as they could not retrieve enough from the river. They were bringing in truckloads of water to distribute among the population of Native Americans. 
Photo Above: View of the River from Ft. Yates. The water usually streatches across 2 1/2 miles in width but it is barely wide enough to paddle. Many sand bars and quick sand like muck aline the river. I am really surprised the Army Corp has not posted warning signs for navigation in these areas. They have become extremely dangerous for two main reasons. It is hard to get off the river if you happen to need to camp or must flee to avoid sudden squalls and wind. There are literally thousands and thousands of trees that are now exposed that were once under water. These trees block off you exit from the water in many areas causing you to maintain your position out in the main channel. At times you may find a small opening among the trees in which to squeeze your boat but you must be careful not to get hung up on ones that are still submerged. If this should happen, it is very difficult to free your boat since you cannot get out of the boat due to the amount of mud and quicksand. In addition to not being able to get off the water from the main channel is that you could also be trapped inside a bay when the water levels from the dam are dropped each day. One day I watched the bay I was camped in slowly get cut off due to more and more trees and stumps being exposed as the waters dropped. I awoke at 4:30 am one morning and fled the bay while the water was calm. I had to search through the maze of tangled mess to find an opening big enough for my boat. I called the N.D Fish and Game in Mackenzie County to find out the condition of the river on Lake Sakakawea and was told it was worse than Oahe where the Missouri empties into the reservoir for almost 100 miles. Huge deltas and sandbars have formed creating a serious problem. The ranger also told me it was the same on Ft. Peck Reservoir as well. If one was able to find a channel after hours of searching you would later have a serious dilemma trying to get off the water each night to camp since dry land is sometimes 1/4 to maybe 1/2 mile away. Everything between the water and dry land is mud, clay, and quicksand. Once again I am forced with another difficult situation. Due to the lack of water creating extreme navigational hazards I will most likely bypass the last two reservoirs. On Ft. Peck I am also faced with being in a more remote area if something should go wrong, with only a couple small dirt roads that access this huge body of water. I will attempt to put in above the reservoir at Williston, N.D and paddle the river to Ft. Peck Dam than exit again and locate a means to get to James Kipp Bridge in Montana. I talked fellow paddlers Bruce and Kathy from St. Johns, Michigan who started in Helena and are on their way to St. Louis. They were able to find transportation around the Williston area and bypassed the upper portions of Lake Sakakawea due to these problems. This is one decision I hoped I would never have to make. I feel I am letting a lot of people down by having to avoid parts of the Lewis and Clark trail. This has been bothering me of several days. I have so far lost 30 days due to weather, waiting for food shipments, or other logistics that the sequential order of my journey will have to be altered. As I mentioned before, I am committed to hiking the Lolo Trail with Gene Eastman no later than the 17th of August. With so many days lost, I need to jump ahead to join him. Even if I bypass the two large reservoirs ahead I will need to leave the trail to meet up with him. Again, this is a decision that frustrates me but one that still allows me to move ahead with the original portions of the trail. I have also been told that the Jefferson River in Montana is already too low and there will probably not be enough water to paddle that section as well. With all my delays and situations, I hope to make it to Three Forks where I will then jump ahead to complete the hike of the Rockies. Since this has been a childhood dream to follow the Lewis and Clark trailI am still committed to reaching the Pacific. Unfortunately it's not going to happen in the order as Lewis and Clark. Days and days of wind, waves, rain, heat and mud are the same conditions Lewis and Clark experienced two hundred years ago. Unfortunately their journals don't detail their emotions and mental frustrations, as did most writing of that time period. But I am sure they too reached a breaking point now and then and wondered what on earth they were doing. I'm sure they too screamed and cursed at the sky when the heavens opened up and poured down rain and hail. I'm sure they too despised the relentless winds blowing the tops off whitecaps and buckling their tents. But like myself, I also know that every evening when the sun sets over the western horizon they too longed to see what lay beyond. I made it to Washburn today under heavy winds. This is the area that Lewis and Clark wintered over with the Mandan Indians during a bitter cold 1804/05. I hope to visit the site of their winter encampment tomorrow. It is actually suppose to freeze here tonight which is a change of pace. The current is pushing against me at about 7 mph through a beautiful wooded countryside. Quick Notes: I reported the human skull I found to the Archeology People with the Army Corp. Of Engineers. They were going to investigate it. Photo Below : Spent a great evening with Bruce and Kathy fellow Kruger Canoe Owners. Were shared stories and contact numbers for several hours as they are going to by pass Lake Oahe and head to Pierre, S.D. They have the same boat as me and they have catamarand them together for added stablity during rough weather. Thanks for the dozen ginger cookies! 
Tired? Who me? Yes I am fatigued and maxed out. I can really appreciate what Lewis and Clark did two hundred years ago. It took them over two months longer to reach this location as myself. There are many hours each day I wished I had gone "downstream" to avoid to constant rush rush of each day and to take in more of the sights and meet with more of the people along the way. Hey Thanks to all those that have bought "official Expedition" T-Shirts from the web site. I appreciate your support. Still plenty more left!!! DeeDee, Thanks for your support and nightly phone check-in's as well as the fudge you sent me at Washburn! Yummy! P.S. I love you! All for now. Norm |
June 18-21, 2004
Oct 13, 1804
"passed a creek 13 yrds on the S.S. at 18 m above the town
heading in some ponds a short dist to the N.E we call Stone Idol
C." Wm Clark (Spring Creek near Kenel S.D.)
Oct 15, 1804
"Saw many curious hills, high and much the resemblance of a house
with a hiped (like ours) roof, at 12 oclock it cleared away and the
evening was pleasant..." Wm Clark (Near Fort Yates, S.D.)
Oct 18, 1804
"Set out early proceeded on at 6mls passed the mouth of Le
Boulet (or Cannon Ball)River about 140 yards wide on the L.S.
this river heads in the Court Noi or Black Mountains above the
mouth of the river great numbers of stone perfectly round with
fine grit are in the bluff and on the shore, the river takes its
name from those stones which resemble cannon balls." Wm
Clark
"The recarees are not fond of spiritous liquers, nor do
they apper to be fond of receivening any or thankfull for it.
They say we are no friends or we would not give them what makes
them fools." Wm Clark
Oct 19, 1804
"I saw some remarkable round hills forming a cone at top one
about 90 foot one 60 & several others smaller, the Indian
Chief say that the Callemet bird lives in the holes of those
hills, the holes form by the way washing away this some parts in
its passage down from the top- near one of those noles, on a
point of a hill 90 feet about the lower plane I observed the
remains of an old village, which had been fortified, the Indian
Chief with us tels me, a party of Mandins lived there, we
proceeded on & camped on the S.S. opposite the upper of those
conical hills." Wm Clark (Near Twin Butte S.D.)
Oct 22, 1804
"Last night at 1 oclock I was violently and suddenly
attacked with the Rhumetism in the neck which was so violent I
could not move Cap. Lewis applied a hot stone raped in flannel,
which gave me some temporey ease." Wm Clark (Near Rock Haven
S.D.)
June 19th, 2004
| The circular indentations that littered the ground are slowly
fading away as the years go by. These indentations were once the
foundations to the largest settlement of Native Americans. Their
homes comprised of circular sod huts in which a small opening at
the top allowed the smoke from the camp fires within to exit. I
had the opportunity to visit the location and home of Sacagawea,
her Husband Charbonneau, and the Hidatsa, Mandan and Arikara
nations. Etched out along the banks of the Knife River and just
upstream from the Missouri is the remains of this large tribe of
Native Americans. This was also the wintering area for Lewis and
Clark during the cold winter of 1804. Local Stanton, N.D.
residents Cindy and KaDee Berger were kind enough to drive me 20
miles out to this village and give me the grand tour of the
nearby farming communities. It was interesting to hear the Park
Service Ranger talk about life along the Knife River and within
the circular sod houses. These houses were large enough for even
the horses of each family to be inside. In the center was a stone
fire pit in which they cooked and kept warm during cold nights
along the plains. It was here that Lewis and Clark hired
Charbonneau and Sacagawea to join them on the long journey to the
Pacific. It was also here that Sacagawea gave birth to Jean
Pompey whom she carried on her back all the way to the ocean and
returned again in 1806 with Lewis and Clark. Charbonneau and
Sacagawea were both influential in the success of the expedition.
She would later help to obtain horses from here people in the
mountains for the long journey over the mountains. I also visited the reconstructed Fort Mandan near the original site of where Lewis and Clark spent the winter. This small fort supplied the men with protections, comfort and warmth until the spring when they departed up the Missouri River. The fort was very busy with several bus tours which I was able to avoid by only minutes. These large groups of people seemed in a constant hurry as they sped around the fort location and then back on the bus. I have obtained transportation around Lake Sacagawea and the upper hazards on the reservoir. I will soon be in Williston, N.D. and probably within a week of the Montana border. The people of the Washburn, N.D. have been very helpful during my visit to the area. I appreciate the hospitality given to me be these wonderful people. |
June 23, 2004
Oct 25, 1804
"Several Indians came to see us this evening, amongst others
the son of the late Great Chief of the Mandins (mourning for his
father), this man has his two little fingers off: on inquireing
the cause, was told it was customary for this nation to show
their greaf by some testimony of pain, and that it was not
uncommon for them to take off 2 smaller fingers of the hand and
sometimes more with other marks of savage effection." Wm
Clark
Nov 4, 2804
"a fine morning we continued to cut down trees and raise our
houses, a Mr. Chaubonie, interpeter for the Gros Ventre nation
came to see us, and informed that the came down with several
Indians froma hunting expidition up the river, to here what we
had told the Indians in Council this man wished to hire as an
interpiter…" Wm Clark (Site of Fort Mandan N.D.)
Nov 11, 1804
"two squaws of the Rock mountains, purchased from the Indians by
a frenchmen (Chaboneau) came down..." Wm Clark (First meeting with
Sacagawea)
Dec 25, 1804
"I was awakened before day by a discharge of 3 platoons from
the party and the french, the men merrily disposed, I give them
all a little Taffia and permitted 3 cannon fired, at raising our
flag, some men went out to hunt & the others to dancing and
continued untill 9 oclock P.M when the frolick ended." Wm
Clark
Jan 6, 1805
"a very cold clear day. The Themt stood at 22 below 0."
Wm Clark
Feb 11, 1806
"about five oclock this evening one of the wives of Charbono
was delivered of a fine boy. It is worthy of remak that this was
the first child which this woman had boarn". M. Lewis (Birth
of Jean Baptiste Charboneau named Pompey by Clark)
Mar 9, 1805
"a cloudy cold and windey morning...;" Wm Clark
March 10, 1805
"a cold winday day..." Wm Clark
Mar 11, 1805
"A cloudy cold windey day, some snow in the latter part of the
day..." Wm Clark
April 7, 1805
"Having on this day at 4 P.M. completed every arrangment
necessary for our departure, we dismissed the barge and crew with
orders to return without loss of time to St. Louis." M.
Lewis
| I arrived in Montana last night having spent the day
negotiating many sand bars and braided channels. Passed the
mighty Yellowstone River dumping huge amounts of silt into the
Missouri. Glad to be in my home state. More later Norm |
April 12, 1805
"...the country is extreamly broken about the mouth of this river,
and as far up on both sides, as we could observe it from the tops of
some elivated hills, which stand between the two rivers, about 3 miles
from their junction." M. Lewis (Mouth of Little Missouri River)
April 13, 1805
"...about 2 in the afternoon when a suddon squall of wind struck
us and turned the perogue so much on the side as to allarm Sharbono
who was steering at the time, in this state of alarm he threw the perogue
with her side to the wind, when the spritsail gibing was as near overseting
the perogue as it was possible to have missed. The wind however abating
for an instant I ordered Drewey to the helm and the sails to be taken
in, which was instantly executed and the perogue being steered before
the wind was agin plased in a state of security..." M. Lewis
April 18, 1805
"found a spcies of pea bearing a yellow flower, and now in
blume; it seldom rises more than 6 inches high, the leaf &
stalk resembles that of a common garden pea, the root is
perenial." M. Lewis (Near Lake Jesse N.D.)
April 19, 1805
"The wind blew so hard this morning from N.W> that we
dared not to venture our canoes on the river." M. Lewis
April 23, 1805
"The wind of this countrey which blow with some violence
almost every day, has become a serious obstruction in our
progression onward, as we cant move when the wind is high without
great risque, and if there was no risque the winds in generally a
head and often too violent to proceed." Wm Clark
April 25, 1805
"we encamped on the bank of the yellow stone river, 2 miles
south of it's confluence with the Missouri." M.
Lewis
April 26, 1805
"in order to add in some measure to the general pleasure
which seemed to pervade our little community, we ordered a dram
to be issued to each person; this soon produced the fiddle, and
they spent the evening with much hilarity, singing & dancing,
and seemed as perfectly to forget their past toils, as they
appeared regardless of those to come." M. Lewis
April 27, 1805
"for several days past we have observed a great number of
buffaloe lying dead on the shore, some of them entire and others
partly devoured by the wolves and bear." M. Lewis
June 26-30, 2004
April 30, 1805
"I walked on shore to day our interpreter & his squar
followed, in my walk the squar found & brought me a bush
something like the currunt , which she said bore a delicious
froot and that great quantitis grew on the rocky mountains. The
shrub was in bloom has a yellow flower with a deep cup, the froot
when ripe is yellow and hanges in bunches like
cheries…" Wm Clark
May 2, 1805
"every thing which is incomprehensible to the indians they
call big medicine, and is the operation of the presnts and power
of the great sperit." M Lewis
May 3, 1805
"we saw an unusual number of Porcupines from which we determined
to call the river after that anamal, and accordingly denominated it
Porcupine river. This stream discharges itself into the Missouri on
the Stard side 2000 miles about the mouth of the latter..." M.
Lewis (Now the Poplar River, MT)
May 5, 1805
"Capt Clark and Drewyer killed the largest brown bear this evening
which we have yet seen. It was a most tremendious looking anamak, and
extreemly hard to kill not withstanding he had five balls through his
lungs and five others in various parts he swam more than half the distance
acros the river to a sandbar, & it was at least twenty minutes before
he died..." M Lewis (Near Wolf Point, MT)
May 8, 1805
"The river we passed today we call Milk River from the
peculiar whiteness of it's water, which precisely resembles
tea with a considerable mixture of milk." Wm Clark
| Sunday: Wolf Point, Montana I was surprised to hear the voice say "are you Norm?" At first I thought the two fellow paddlers were someone from my hometown of Livingston. They introduced themselves as Wolfman and Freight Train, each paddling solo canoes and headed for New Orleans. Freight Train had to share his space with a rather large black dog who didn't like the water. He had found the dog while backpacking the Appalachian Trail and it has become his traveling buddy. They had read my web site prior to their departure from Three Forks, Montana and were surprised to see me as I was of them. We exchanged a half hour's worth of river stories and departed our separate ways, they downstream, me up stream into steady current. I feel much closer to home now that I have crossed the border into Montana. The days prior I had spent with farmers Stan and Jan Anderson on their wheat and sugar beat farm along the Missouri River. They had been kind enough to let me camp on their property and to give me the grand tour of the beautiful area. They live close to the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers which was the meeting place for Lewis and Clark on their return journey in 1806. Clark had returned by way of the Yellowstone and Lewis and went north along the Marias River and back down the Missouri. Clark arrived only a few days before Lewis where these two rivers meet. The landscape has become harsher since arriving in Montana. Large arid bluffs rise above the rivers edge like eroding sand castles providing me with a colorful array of white, pink, yellow and gray. I know have to pay close attention to the river to find the proper channel, current and sandbars. It is rather challenging since the water levels are continuously dropping. I feel I have mastered this skill and have gone many miles without having to push myself off any sandbars. I made it to Culberston by noon on Friday and was greeted by Texan Craig Swanson who is kayaking solo to St. Louis. The day before he had been beaten up bad by three young men on the Reservation in Wolf Point. They had first tried to take his kayak but when he interfered they switched their aggression on him. He was very disturbed and upset by the situation which has now taken away a lot of the fun out of his journey. I tried to boost his spirits and told him he should not camp on the "north" side which is the reservation and to be thankful nothing worse happened. He now has to paddle to Williston, N.D. for some dental work due to the incident. We spent the day camped together and made numerous trips to town to eat ice cream and pizza which we both don't get to eat while paddling. He is sort of a minimalist and eats canned soup right of the can without heating and only has a bar of granola for breakfast while I consume about 4000 calories of food just to keep me going. The nights have been cold but are now starting to warm up and slowly bringing out the mosquitoes. I have talked to several people who have had the West Nile Virus and it really affected them. Lewis and Clark were plagued by mosquitoes but they didn't have to worry about this new 21st century disease. On July 2nd my friend Terri will meet me at Ft. Peck to help transport me around the reservoir where I will put back in at James Kipp Bridge to start my way through the Wild and Scenic Missouri Breaks to Ft. Benton which I hope to arrive on around the 14th-17th where I hope to see my sister Gail and brother-in-law Barry. This next section of the river will be the most wild and has changed very little since Lewis and Clark passed through. It is also a popular canoeing and floating destination. Me? Glad to be "home". I have reached the 1/2 way point after three long months of some very challenging situations and conditions. I have a better appreciation for what Lewis and Clark went through and their journey I feel I have begun to understand a lot of what they mentally went through. Constant extreme weather and very uncomfortable living conditions. The last few days have been the first in three months that my feet have been dry. Dirty? Yes, they are still dirty but they are dry. |
June 29th Milk River
The two spotted fawns were unaware of me as I approached the shore
of the river. The mother sensed my presence and quickly bolted into
the nearby woods with one of the fawns right behind. The second fawn
did not know the other two had left but quickly realized it when it
became aware of "the big blue boat" paddling towards shore.
It pranced wildly up and down the shore looking for its mother who was
probably now too far away. The young deer finally found a trail leading
into the thick brush and it too disappeared from site. I knew this would
be a good area to camp since animals bring me good luck and safety.
I pulled my boat to shore after a long 23 miles which included three
sets of rapids in which I had to pull my boat through the knee deep
water since the current was too strong to even consider paddling. The
standing waved in the center of the river bounced off rocks as the waters
headed downstream. I am camped directly across from the Milk River,
which William Clark named because of its appearance. It looks like tea
which one has added a hearty portion of milk to. This was the river
that the Indians had told them about the previous winter while living
at Fort Mandan. They called it "the river that scolds all others".
It is the most northern river that empties into the Missouri and was
a major trade route for the trappers and Native Americans for many years.
I am within 8 miles of Ft. Peck dam, which is one of the largest earth
dams ever built. The wind is at my back that should help push me through
the strong current to Ft. Peck.
During the boom days when the dam was being constructed there was close
to 13,000 people living here. Now only a small handful of about 300
residents live here. I am glad to have reached this area, as it is sort
of another milestone.
I keep me "goals" short and not think about the Pacific or
even my hike in Idaho coming up in just over a month, as it would be
too overwhelming. I usually try to paddle the distance on one of my
maps, which is equal to about 15-20 miles. It is very rewarding to me
when I cover such distance and very upsetting when my day is cut short
due to winds. It has been very lonely the last several days. I have
not seen or talked to anyone except myself.
At times this entire project seems worthless and that I am typing these
words that no one will read but only to have a message relayed to me
from a long lost college roomate, high school teacher, or stranger who
I have never met sending me words of encouragement and praise. Its days
like these that keeps me going while other times I have all I can do
to even get out of my tent in the morning. I appreaciate all who are
following and thanks for the messages and emails you have sent. Anyone
who wants to email me please do so at info@lewisandclark-2004.com. It
may be over a month before I get it since I only check this account
when at a public library. If you want to relay a message then send it
to Jamie who is posting my updates here on the wedsite. His email is
repoman@voyager.net.
The cottonwood trees are in full bloom the last few days. The seeds
dropped by these giant trees each have a tuft of cotton like fiber,
which floats in the air depositing the seed downwind. The air is so
thick with cotton that is looks as is it is snowing out. Yesterday I
was hit in the face with so much of it that it would stick to my whiskers
like Velcro, which I then had to wipe off. I constantly felt like I
was getting hit it the face with cobwebs.
The technology I use to send photos and text data is far beyond anything
used by Lewis and Clark except for the occasional pen to write a rough
draft. I'm sure I am the first ever to paddle the Missouri River
while carrying a Dell Inspiron 300M laptop, Satellite Phone, Iowa Thin
Film Solar Panels, and a Nikion Cool Pics 5400 digital camera. Sending
data from the field is very challenging. Not only must you keep out
dirt, water and other debris but you must also set it up in rather obscure
places while extremely fatigued from having paddled all day.
I begin by downloading all my photos onto my laptop photo program. I
then open WordPad and type the text for that particular update. This
is all saved where it will be attached to an outgoing email. I then
decide which photo's I would like to send along to give you a feel
for the trail or the mood of the day. I then open up a jpeg file compression
program which reduces the 50K-350K photo's down to around 10k. This
procedure saves battery life on my laptop and satellite phone. Since
my Telestial Iridium Phone only transmits data at a rate of about 2k
per second it is important that the size be reduced to save time and
battery life. I usually send two updates per battery before they need
to be recharged or replaced with a new one.
I use two solar panels from Iowa
Thin Films. These panels are lightweight and roll up like a map
and easily stored in a dry bag. As I approach more remote areas I will
be using these panels more and more. The first part of my journey I
had access to electrical outlets but they are now few and far between.
When the sun is out and I am wind bound or taking a break I pull out
these panels and attach either my satellite phone or computer to them
to recharge. They work really good and I highly recommend a set of these
for anyone who ventures away from a power source.
Photo Above: Recharging Satellite Phone using solar
panels from Iowa Thin Films. They worked great and would highly recommend
them to anyone.
When I send an update, I create an email in Outlook Express, then I
attach the text file and the jpeg photos to the email before sending.
The phone is then attached to the laptop using a USB to Port Adapter
cable. When using a satellite phone you must have the phone outside
with an unobstructed view of the sky. Trees and buildings will cause
you to lose your satellite connection so I have to make sure I have
a clear shot of the sky. I then open up my email connection and the
phone is automatically dialed to my account with Stratosnet. Once connected
it takes about 5-10 minutes to send the email. This is usually done
inside my tent while the phone it outside pearched on a nearby log.
Confused? You should be, it is a lengthy process with many precautions
along the way. Imagine doing an update after paddling 10 hours into
a headwind during 80 degree temperatures while sitting in a small tent
crammed with equipment and clothing.
All of my high tech equipment is stored in Pelican Water Proof Cases (which
also float). In each case I have added desiccant tablets which help
remove moisture from the equipment. These tablets are the small packages
you find in medication and sometimes food. As you can imagine I don't
even dare open any of my Pelican Cases if it is raining for fear of
ruining the equipment. The data that Jamie Robinson at CoreComm receives
is then cut and pasted to the web site for you to view.
In the days of Lewis and Clark the fastest way information traveled
was by horse or by boat. It would take days, weeks and even months for
some people to receive information. When the Corp.of Discovery returned
to St. Louis in 1806 many people thought they had all died since there
was no way for anyone to receive information from them while they were
gone. Imagine if Lewis and Clark had a laptop and satellite phone to
send data back to President Jefferson.
