Latest News!! June 19th,2004 T-shirts Available!! Trip Itinerary Planning Process Photo Journals Lewis & Clark History Maps of Route Plant & Animal Discovery's Kids Corner Links Contribute & Donations Sponsorship Home Contact: In the Wake of Discovery L&C-2004 Bicentennial Expedition PO Box 2004 Livingston, MT 59047 406-222-8016		Back to Updates Index Click Here July 1-4, 2004 The two spotted fawns were unaware of me as I approached the shore of the river. The mother sensed my presence and quickly bolted into the nearby woods with one of the fawns right behind. The second fawn did not know the other two had left but quickly realized it when it became aware of "the big blue boat" paddling towards shore. It pranced wildly up and down the shore looking for its mother who was probably now too far away. The young deer finally found a trail leading into the thick brush and it too disappeared from site. I knew this would be a good area to camp since animals bring me good luck and safety. I pulled my boat to shore after a long 23 miles which included three sets of rapids in which I had to pull my boat through the knee deep water since the current was too strong to even consider paddling. The standing waved in the center of the river bounced off rocks as the waters headed downstream. I am camped directly across from the Milk River, which William Clark named because of its appearance. It looks like tea which one has added a hearty portion of milk to. This was the river that the Indians had told them about the previous winter while living at Fort Mandan. They called it "the river that scolds all others". It is the most northern river that empties into the Missouri and was a major trade route for the trappers and Native Americans for many years. I am within 8 miles of Ft. Peck dam, which is one of the largest earth dams ever built. The wind is at my back that should help push me through the strong current to Ft. Peck. During the boom days when the dam was being constructed there was close to 13,000 people living here. Now only a small handful of about 300 residents live here. I am glad to have reached this area, as it is sort of another milestone. I keep me "goals" short and not think about the Pacific or even my hike in Idaho coming up in just over a month, as it would be too overwhelming. I usually try to paddle the distance on one of my maps, which is equal to about 15-20 miles. It is very rewarding to me when I cover such distance and very upsetting when my day is cut short due to winds. It has been very lonely the last several days. I have not seen or talked to anyone except myself. At times this entire project seems worthless and that I am typing these words that no one will read but only to have a message relayed to me from a long lost college roomate, high school teacher, or stranger who I have never met sending me words of encouragement and praise. Its days like these that keeps me going while other times I have all I can do to even get out of my tent in the morning. I appreaciate all who are following and thanks for the messages and emails you have sent. Anyone who wants to email me please do so at info@lewisandclark-2004.com. It may be over a month before I get it since I only check this account when at a public library. If you want to relay a message then send it to Jamie who is posting my updates here on the wedsite. His email is repoman@voyager.net. The cottonwood trees are in full bloom the last few days. The seeds dropped by these giant trees each have a tuft of cotton like fiber, which floats in the air depositing the seed downwind. The air is so thick with cotton that is looks as is it is snowing out. Yesterday I was hit in the face with so much of it that it would stick to my whiskers like Velcro, which I then had to wipe off. I constantly felt like I was getting hit it the face with cobwebs. The technology I use to send photos and text data is far beyond anything used by Lewis and Clark except for the occasional pen to write a rough draft. I'm sure I am the first ever to paddle the Missouri River while carrying a Dell Inspiron 300M laptop, Satellite Phone, Iowa Thin Film Solar Panels, and a Nikion Cool Pics 5400 digital camera. Sending data from the field is very challenging. Not only must you keep out dirt, water and other debris but you must also set it up in rather obscure places while extremely fatigued from having paddled all day. I begin by downloading all my photos onto my laptop photo program. I then open WordPad and type the text for that particular update. This is all saved where it will be attached to an outgoing email. I then decide which photo's I would like to send along to give you a feel for the trail or the mood of the day. I then open up a jpeg file compression program which reduces the 50K-350K photo's down to around 10k. This procedure saves battery life on my laptop and satellite phone. Since my Telestial Iridium Phone only transmits data at a rate of about 2k per second it is important that the size be reduced to save time and battery life. I usually send two updates per battery before they need to be recharged or replaced with a new one. I use two solar panels from Iowa Thin Films. These panels are lightweight and roll up like a map and easily stored in a dry bag. As I approach more remote areas I will be using these panels more and more. The first part of my journey I had access to electrical outlets but they are now few and far between. When the sun is out and I am wind bound or taking a break I pull out these panels and attach either my satellite phone or computer to them to recharge. They work really good and I highly recommend a set of these for anyone who ventures away from a power source. When I send an update, I create an email in Outlook Express, then I attach the text file and the jpeg photos to the email before sending. The phone is then attached to the laptop using a USB to Port Adapter cable. When using a satellite phone you must have the phone outside with an unobstructed view of the sky. Trees and buildings will cause you to lose your satellite connection so I have to make sure I have a clear shot of the sky. I then open up my email connection and the phone is automatically dialed to my account with Stratosnet. Once connected it takes about 5-10 minutes to send the email. This is usually done inside my tent while the phone it outside pearched on a nearby log. Confused? You should be, it is a lengthy process with many precautions along the way. Imagine doing an update after paddling 10 hours into a headwind during 80 degree temperatures while sitting in a small tent crammed with equipment and clothing. All of my high tech equipment is stored in Pelican Water Proof Cases (which also float). In each case I have added desiccant tablets which help remove moisture from the equipment. These tablets are the small packages you find in medication and sometimes food. As you can imagine I don't even dare open any of my Pelican Cases if it is raining for fear of ruining the equipment. The data that Jamie Robinson at CoreComm receives is then cut and pasted to the web site for you to view. In the days of Lewis and Clark the fastest way information traveled was by horse or by boat. It would take days, weeks and even months for some people to receive information. When the Corp.of Discovery returned to St. Louis in 1806 many people thought they had all died since there was no way for anyone to receive information from them while they were gone. Imagine if Lewis and Clark had a laptop and satellite phone to send data back to President Jefferson. May 12, 1805 "I ascended the hills and had a view of a rough and broken country on both sides of the river; on the North side the summits of the hills exhibit some scattering pine and cedar…" M Lewis (Present area of Ft. Peck Lake Reservoir, MT) May 17, 1805 "We were roused late at night and warned of the danger of fire from a tree which had cought and leaned over our lodge, we had the lodge moved soon after the dry limbs && top of the tree fell in the place the lodge stood…the whole party were much disturbed by this fire which could not be distinguished." Wm Clark May 20, 1805 "At 11 A.M we arrived at the entrance of a handsome bold river which discharges itself into the Missouri on the Lard side; this stream we take to be that called by the Minnetares the Muscleshell River" M. Lewis May 26, 1805 "In the after part of the day I also walked out and ascended the river hills which I found sufficiently fortiegueing. On arriving to the summit of one of the highest points in the neighborhood I thought myself well repaid for my labour; as from this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time, I could only discover a few of the most elivated points about the horizon, the most remarkable of which by my pocket compass I found bore N. 65. W." M Lewis May 29, 1805 "Cap. C. who assended this R. much higher than I did has thought proper to call it Judieths River" M Lewis (Mouth of the Judith River, MT) "today we passed on the Stard side the remains of a vast many mangled carcasses of buffalow which had been driven over a precipice of 120 feet by the Indians and perished; the water appeared to have washed away a part of this immence pile of slaughter and still their remained the fragments of at least a hundred carcases they created a most horrid stench. M Lewis (Near Slaughter Creek, MT)   July 5-9, 2004 The tiny 2-horse powered Honda motor seemed too small for the large Grumman aluminum freight canoe tied up on shore. Two people moved about setting up an early camp as I inched along the shore. I pulled my boat up next to the large canoe and was greeted by Kathleen West a BLM Ranger who along with co-worker Chris Noyes were on their last night out of a week long patrol of the Missouri Breaks Wild and Scenic section between Ft. Benton and James Kipp Recreation Area. This beautiful section of the river is the most scenic, isolated, and most unchanged on the entire Missouri River. Little has changed since the days of Lewis and Clark except for the number of visitors to the area. The two rangers help maintain the designated campsites along the way as well as remove trash they happen to find. I tied my boat up to theirs, retrieved my lunch bag from my boat and joined them on shore. This was Kathleens first year on patrol. She is a photographer and lives the rest of the year in Arizona. Chris has worked several summers on the river and will return to college in Ashland, Oregon when the season is over. They had some of the camping comforts that I miss such as a folding table and a cooler. I was hoping they had some ice cream stored somewhere within the cooler. I encountered many groups of canoeist the last two days. Some canoes were so full of gear they reminded me of my own departure from St. Louis three months ago. This past Sunday I managed to eliminate a few more items which I have not used as well as swap my heavy sleeping bag for a lighter one now that the nights are warm. My friend Terri arrived at Ft. Peck about noon on Saturday to help shuttle me around the reservoir. The area was busy with motorboats, jet skis, pontoons and screaming children all there for the July 4th weekend. I was glad to leave the chaos behind and get back to the solitude the river has offered me. The river is lined with high bluffs consisting of sand and limestone. Erosion is playing a key role in the every changing vista. Gullies are carved by water giving the bluffs the appearance of giant sand castles that a child transforms when a bucket of water is dumped overtop. The current is now the strongest I have yet encountered. I frequently must get out and pull my boat through the fast knee-deep rapids. This provides a much-needed break by allowing me to stretch my legs and cool down in the water. I've realized that walking in water is much slower that when I paddle. I have managed to cover 13 miles each of the last two days. I am looking forward to reaching Ft. Benton, which will be another milestone in this long arduous journey. My sister Gail and her husband Barry are planning on meeting me there from Michigan. The next 125 miles consist of more rapids, beautiful cliffs and bluffs, no towns, plenty of mud, bugs and heat. I am camped below the hills this evening that Meriwether Lewis climbed in 1805 to get his first view of the Rocky Mountains. It was a joyous occasion and milestone for their expedition to finally reach the source of the Missouri River. I hope to climb the bluffs myself to get a view of the mountains that I have missed these last three months. I dedicate this weeks paddling to my Uncle Richard Miller who passed away this past weekend. My thoughts and prayers go out to his family. He will be missed. May 12, 1805 "I ascended the hills and had a view of a rough and broken country on both sides of the river; on the North side the summits of the hills exhibit some scattering pine and cedar…" M Lewis (Present area of Ft. Peck Lake Reservoir, MT) May 17, 1805 "We were roused late at night and warned of the danger of fire from a tree which had cought and leaned over our lodge, we had the lodge moved soon after the dry limbs && top of the tree fell in the place the lodge stood…the whole party were much disturbed by this fire which could not be distinguished." Wm Clark May 20, 1805 "At 11 A.M we arrived at the entrance of a handsome bold river which discharges itself into the Missouri on the Lard side; this stream we take to be that called by the Minnetares the Muscleshell River" M. Lewis May 26, 1805 "In the after part of the day I also walked out and ascended the river hills which I found sufficiently fortiegueing. On arriving to the summit of one of the highest points in the neighborhood I thought myself well repaid for my labour; as from this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time, I could only discover a few of the most elivated points about the horizon, the most remarkable of which by my pocket compass I found bore N. 65. W." M Lewis May 29, 1805 "Cap. C. who assended this R. much higher than I did has thought proper to call it Judieths River" M Lewis (Mouth of the Judith River, MT) "today we passed on the Stard side the remains of a vast many mangled carcasses of buffalow which had been driven over a precipice of 120 feet by the Indians and perished; the water appeared to have washed away a part of this immence pile of slaughter and still their remained the fragments of at least a hundred carcases they created a most horrid stench. M Lewis (Near Slaughter Creek, MT) July 8th,2004 We have ice cream said the lady behind the counter of the tiny store. My eyes opened wide at her comment. I ordered 2 fruit Popsicles to go along with a cold bottle of Gatorade, Doritos and a Rolo Candy Bar. The small store carried the least amount of supplies for boaters but plenty for my quick lunch break at Judith Landing. The store is located about 50 miles from anywhere only by dirt road. It provides a quick re-supply for anyone going further down river, or upriver in my case. It is also the only store or building along the 150 mile section between Ft. Benton and James Kipp Recreation area except for the occasional old homestead. Dozens of canoeist were ending their trip at the bridge as I paused for a brief stop. A nice couple from Corvallus, Montana gave me 4 gallons of fresh drinking water, which I was about out of. They had just completed their first canoe trip through the Wild and Scenic Section of the White Cliffs region and enjoyed it despite the woman becoming ill on the last day. I had made fair distances the last few days even though the river is very fast with numerous rapids. I probably dragged my boat upstream at least 4 miles in the last 4 days. Every time I would encounter a section where the river narrowed, the current became fast and shallow. Too fast for any forward progress and too shallow to plant a canoe paddle in without breaking it. When the boat started to hit bottom, I would quickly jump out, grab the bowline and start walking through the calf to knee deep warm water with the boat in tow. Usually after a hundred yards or so I would climb back in only to do all over again after about a mile. It is hard for me to imagine Lewis and Clark and their men pulling huge pirogues using rope made of elk skins. I think the river was much deeper in 1805 when they passed through since there is no way they could do it in the low water conditions the river is in today. As I departed Judith Landing I passed the mouth of the Judith River, which William Clark named after the women he would eventually marry. The wind was hard and steady into my face as I covered the next five miles in 3 1/2 hours where I set up my tent on a small 5-acre island with several large cottonwood trees to help break the wind.   July 10-13, 2004 Lot's of pictures and letters next.   July 14-18, 2004 HI, I was wondering if you would pass on to Norm that I enjoy his updates and check in quite often. I met Stan Hanson last year on the Mississippi Challenge for Rett Syndrome and Luekodystrophy, I live in MN and have a daughter with Rett. Anyways, let him know that there are lots of us out here thinking of him daily and enjoying the read. Take care, Tammy Hanson turkeys@mlecmn.net
July 20,2004 Dear Jamie, My husband Barry and I went to see Norm on the river at Fort Benton MT. It was great to see him and to see that he was doing well and looking fit too. If you talk to Norm tell him we really enjoyed our visit, although short. We are proud of him and think it's great that he is living out his dreams and interests. And thanks for taking all of us along with him . It's been fun so far except for the wing dikes and low water levels that is . There are more people following along than he realizes. I'm proud of both my brothers and sister, we have a bond of love that keeps us together no matter how many miles ,mountains or rivers are between. Tell him good luck on the hike, and the rest of the way to the Pacific. We love you Norm!!! sister Gail

May 31, 1805

The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a most romantic appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300 feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of remarkable white sandstone which is sufficiently soft to give way readily to the impression of water; two or thre thin horizontal stratas of white free-stone, on which the rains or water make no impression as we passed on it Seemed as if those Seens of Visionary enchantment would never have an end; for here it is too that nature presents to the view of the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, So perfect indeed are those walls that I Should have thought that nature had attempted here to rival the human art of Masonry had I not recollected that She had first began her work. These walls rise to the hight in many places of 100 feet, are perpindicular, with two regular faces, and are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the Same thickess to the top which it possesses at bottom

Wm. Clark (Missouri Breaks National Monument,MT)

June 3rd Monday 1805

we formed a Camp on the point in the junction of the two rivers, and dispatched a Canoe & three men up each river to examine and find if possible which is the most probable branch, the left fork which is the largest we are doubtfull of, the Indians do not mention any river falling in on the right in this part of the Missouri, The Scolding river, if there is Such a one Should have fallen in below agreeable to their accts. we also dispatched men in different dircts. by land, to a mountain Covered with Snow to the South & other up each river- Capt Lewis and my Self walked out & assended the hill in the point observed a leavel open Counrey to the foot of the mountains which lye South of this, also a River which falls into the Right hand fork about 1½ miles above its mouth on the Lard. Side this little river discharges a great deal of water & contains as much Cotton timber in its bottoms as either of the others we saw Buffalow & antelopes &c. wild Cheries, red & yellow burries, Goose berries &c. abound in the river bottoms, prickley pares on the high plains, we had a meridian altitude and the Lattd. produced was 47° 24' 12" N. Wm Clark (Junction of the Marias and Missouri River)

Saturday June 8th 1805

"The whole of my party to a man except myself were fully peswaided that this river was the Missouri, but being fully of opinion that it was neither the main stream or that which it would be advisable for us to take, I determined to give it a name and in honour of Miss Maria W-d. called it Maria's River. it is true that the hue of the waters of this turbulent and troubled stream but illy comport with the pure celestial virtues and amiable qualifications of that lovely fair one; but on the other hand it is a noble river; one destined to become in my opinion an object of contention between the two great powers of America and Great Britin with rispect to the adjustment of the North westwardly boundary of the former; and that it will become one of the most interesting brances of the Missouri in a commercial point of view, I have but little doubt, as it abounds with anamals of the fur kind, and most probably furnishes a safe and direct communication to that productive country of valuable furs exclusively enjoyed at present by the subjects of his Britanic Majesty; in adition to which it passes through a rich fertile and one of the most beatifully picteresque countries that I ever beheld, through the wide expance of which, innumerable herds of living anamals are seen, it's borders garished with one continued garden of roses, while it's lofty and open forrests, are the habitation of miriads of the feathered tribes who salute the ear of the passing traveler with their wild and simple, yet s[w]eet and cheerfull melody." M. Lewis

Sunday June 9th 1805.

We determined to deposite at this place the large red perogue all the heavy baggage which we could possibly do without and some provision, salt, tools powder and Lead &c with a view to lighten our vessels and at the same time to strengthen their crews by means of the seven hands who have been heretofore employd. in navigating the red perogue; accordingly we set some hands to diging a hole or cellar for the reception of our stores. Lewis

June 11th Tuesday 1805

a fair morning wind from the S W. hard we burry 1 keg in the Cash & 2 Canisters of Powder in 3 places2 seperate places all with Lead; & in the Cash 2 axes, auger, Plains, 1 Keg flour, 2 Kegs Pork, 2 Kegs Parchd meal 1 Keg salt, files Chisel, 2 Musquits, Some tin cups, howel, 3 bear Skins, Beaver Skins, Horns, & parts of the mens robes & clothes.- Beaver Traps and blacksmith's tools. Capt. Lewis Set out at 8 oClock we delayed to repare Some guns out of order & complete our deposit, which took us the day the evening fair and fine wind from the N. W. after night it became cold & the wind blew hard, the Indian woman verry Sick, I blead her which appeared to be of great Service to her both rivers riseing fast…" Wm Clark

Great Falls of the Missouri

June 13th 1805.

I had proceded on this course about two miles with Goodrich at some distance behind me whin my ears were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water and advancing a little further I saw the spray arrise above the plain like a collumn of smoke which would frequently dispear again in an instant caused I presume by the wind which blew pretty hard from the S. W. I did not however loose my direction to this point which soon began to make a roaring too tremendious to be mistaken for any cause short of the great falls of the Missouri. here I arrived about 12 OClock having traveled by estimate about 15 Miles. I hurryed down the hill which was about 200 feet high and difficult of access, to gaze on this sublimely grand specticle.

Friday June 14th 1805.

..I scelected a fat buffaloe and shot him very well, through the lungs; while I was gazeing attentively on the poor anamal discharging blood in streams from his mouth and nostrils, expecting him to fall every instant, and having entirely forgotton to reload my rifle, a large white, or reather brown bear, had perceived and crept on me within 20 steps before I discovered him; in the first moment I drew up my gun to shoot, but at the same instant recolected that she was not loaded and that he was too near for me to hope to perform this opperation before he reached me, as he was then briskly advancing on me; it was an open level plain, not a bush within miles nor a tree within less than three hundred yards of me; the river bank was sloping and not more than three feet above the level of the water; in short there was no place by means of which I could conceal myself from this monster untill I could charge my rifle; in this situation I thought of retreating in a brisk walk as fast as he was advancing untill I could reach a tree about 300 yards below me, but I had no sooner terned myself about but he pitched at me, open mouthed and full speed, I ran about 80 yards and found he gained on me fast, I then run into the water the idea struk me to get into the water to such debth that I could stand and he would be obliged to swim, and that I could in that situation defend myself with my espontoon; accordingly I ran haistily into the water about waist deep, and faced about and presented the point of my espontoon, at this instant he arrived at the edge of the water within about 20 feet of me; the moment I put myself in this attitude of defence he sudonly wheeled about as if frightened, declined the combat on such unequal grounds, and retreated with quite as great precipitation as he had just before pursued me. as soon as I saw him run of in that manner I returned to the shore and charged my gun, which I had still retained in my hand throughout this curious adventure. M. Lewis

Thursday June 20th 1805.

"This morning we had but little to do; waiting the return of Capt. Clark; I am apprehensive from his stay that the portage is longer than we had calculated on. I sent out 4 hunters this morning on the opposite side of the river to kill buffaloe; the country being more broken on that side and cut with ravenes they can get within shoot of the buffaloe with more ease and certainty than on this side of the river. my object is if possible while we have now but little to do, to lay in a large stock of dryed meat at this end of the portage to subsist the party while engaged in the transportation of our baggage &c, to the end, that they may not be taken from this duty when once commenced in order to surch for the necessary subsistence. The Indian woman is qute free from pain and fever this morning and appears to be in a fair way for recovery, she has been walking about and fishing. In the evening 2 of the hunters returned and informed me that they had killed eleven buffaloe eight of which were in very fine order, I sent off all hands immediately to bring in the meat they soon returned with about half of the best meat leaving three men to remain all night in order to secure the ballance." M. Lewis

Saturday June 22cd 1805

. "This morning early Capt Clark and myself with all the party except Sergt. Ordway Sharbono, Goodrich, york and the Indian woman, set out to pass the portage with the canoe and baggage to the Whitebear Islands, where we intend that this portage shall end. Capt. Clarke piloted us through the plains. about noon we reached a little stream about 8 miles on the portage where we halted and dined" M Lewis

June 25, 1805

"Capt. C. somewhat unwell today. he made Charbono kook for the party against their return. it is worthy of remark that the winds are sometimes so strong in these plains that the men informed me that they hoisted a sail in the canoe and it had driven her along on the truck wheels. this is really sailing on dry land." Lewis

July 4, 1805

"we have never once hinted to any one of the party that we had such a scheme in contemplation, and all appear perfectly to have made up their minds to suceed in the expedition or purish in the attempt." M. Lewis

July 9, 1805

"we having more baggage than our canoes would carry. Concluded to build canoes for to carry them; no timber near our camp" Wm. Clark

July 10, 1805

"The musquitors emencely noumerous & troblesom" Wm. Clark

July 12, 1805

"a fair windley morning wind from the S.W. all hands at work at day light some at the canoes, & others drying meat for our voyage." Wm. Clark

July 14, 1805

"all hands that could work were employed about the canoes. Which completed and alunched thais evening. The one was 25 feet and the other 33 feet in length and about 3 feet wide. We have now the seats and oars to make and fit &c." M. Lewis

July 18-21, 2004

July 15, 1805

"We arose very early this morning, assigned the canoes their loads and had it put on boars. We now found our vessels eight in number all heavily laden…" M. Lewis



"The sunflower is in bloom and abundant in the river bottoms. The indians of the Missouri particularly those who do not cultivate maze make great uce of the seed of this plant for bread, or use it in thickening their soope." M.Lewis

""the emence high precipces oblige all the pary to pass & repass the river from one point to another the river confined in maney places in a verry narrow chanel from 70 to 120 yards wide bottoms narrow without timber and maney places the mountain approach on both sides…" Wm Clark

July 18, 1805

"this handsome bold and clear stream we named in honour of the Secretary of war calling it Dearborn's river" M. Lewis

July 19, 1805

"this evening we entered much the most remarkable clifts that we have yet seen. These clifts rise from the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the hight of about 1200 feet. The towering and projecting rocks in many places seem ready to tumble on us. From the singular appearance of this place I called it the gates of the rocky mountains." M. Lewis

"my feet is verry much brused & cut walking over the flint, & constantly stuck full Prickly pear thorns, I pulled out 17 by the light of the fire tonight." Wm. Clark

July 22, 1805

"the large creek which we passed on the Stard 15 yds we White Earth Creek from the circumstance of the natives procuring a white paint on the crek." M. Lewis (Present Beaver Creek at Canyon Ferry Reservoir)

July 26, 1805

"I deturmined to leave Shabono & one man who had sore feet to rest & proceed on with the other two to the top of a mountain 12 miles distant west and from thence view the river & vallies a head, we with great dificuelty & much fatigue reached the top at 11 oClock from the top of this mountain I could see the course of the north fork about 10 miles meandering through a vallie but could discover no Indians or sign which was frech." Wm Clark

July 27, 1805

"ascended the point of a high limestone clift from whence I commanded a most perfect view of the neighboring country." M Lewis (Junction of the Three Forks, MT)

July 19-22, 2004

The two fawns stood looking intent to my approaching canoe. One hand was paddling while the other held the camera up to my eye ready for the perfect photo. I came within a boat length and clicked away exposure after exposure. The fawns did not know what to make of the strange creature at the waters edge. I'm sure mom or dad never explained to them what a canoe was. The mother deer had bolted minutes before as it was obvious she knew what I was while the fawns could care less. The kept looking back for mother and then looking forward at me, then taking a drink of water from the river. I watched them for several minutes before they too bolted for cover. I am fast approaching the mountains. Even though the river is extremely crooked, the high hills get bigger and bigger. The river is also not as wide as it has been in the past. I can even throw a stone across it in several places while most of it is just out of my reach. Lewis and Clark left Great Falls in 8 heavily loaded canoes which they built out of cottonwood trees. I can't imagine paddling a 33 foot dugout canoe that weighed close to 8000 pounds! That is about 7700 more pounds than I have the pleasure of pulling through the current. (Lucky me!) Today I was actually forced to camp early due to the heavy headwinds which slowed my progress to almost a standstill. It has been a long time since I have been wind bound. I am hoping to make it to Gates of the Rocky Mountains in about 5 days. Three Forks by the last weekend of the month. From there I get to trade in my paddle for a pair of hiking boots for about a month. I am looking forward to resting my tired body for awhile.

July 23-30, 2004

Sunday- Hauser Reservoir Montana The constant hum of jet skis, speed boats, and the smell of exhaust for two days has taken away a lot of the beauty and solitude from the area and given me a headache. Holter and Hauser Reservoirs are popular motor boat destinations especially on the weekends. For two days I have been bombarded my huge wakes from all directions. I have encountered over 500 boats and not one dropped their speed as they approached me. A few were so close that I could read the writing of the drivers t-shirts. I arrived at the first of these two reservoirs Friday evening after three challenging days in which the current was the strongest I have encountered on the entire Missouri River. After passing the small town of Cascade, the river enters the mountains for the first time. Steep volcanic cliffs raise high above often dropping directly into the water. The scenery has been spectacular but not as remote as the previous weeks. Many summer cottages line the river and instead of canoes and kayaks the crystal clear waters are used by drift boats and trout fisherman. The water is so clear one can easily see the stones 10 feet below the surface. The clarity has helped my navigation tremendously because I can actually see when it's getting too shallow. As with before I would either run aground or hit the blade of my paddle on the river bottom. When I saw that I was getting too close to shore I would steer further out into the deeper water. Although the navigation is easier, the clear water makes me feel uneasy. I personally don't like to see how deep the water is because I have a strange sense that it is calling me to its depths.Jamie's comments on this here In fact I am afraid of water which surprises most people. At times the river bordered on Class II whitewater while the majority remained very swift with intermittent pools of slack water for a 100 yards only to be followed by another section of fast moving current. Lewis and Clark had a difficult time hauling their heavy loads through Pine Island Rapids and so did I. The river makes a quick "s" turn with over a few hundred yards of standing waves. At times I was up to my waist hauling my boat through the slowest of current I could find. I often wonder how I am able to paddle 10 hour days in water that I am unsure I can even walk through. I think I have reached a point in the journey where I've realized I can do it as long as I stay positive and focused on the situation at hand. I more or less tell myself "I've walked, dragged, or paddled hundreds of sections like this I can it one more time". Some days I am even surprised at the miles I have covered which are often more that I estimated for that particular day. I'm sure the members of the Lewis and Clark expedition had similar thoughts. The constant toil, slow pace and relentlessness became a daily routine in which one tries not to think about too much. I feel as if I am in some sort of mental trance at times making the hours speed my. The entire river I've discovered is basically like life itself. Whatever obstacle you are faced with can only be solved if you tell yourself you can do it. "One day at a time; one step at a time; one paddle stroke at a time will get you to the ocean." I've learned I can only do so much in one day. There are days when I don't feel like getting out of the tent or pressing on any further but I somehow manage to do it. Everyday. When the conditions seem hopeless one just has to dive right into it and keep pressing forward. I hope this journey will inspire at least one person to step outside of the box, to see life like a river, as one bend at a time. We must remember that Lewis and Clark were not "super-heroes". They didn't do anything that today's man or woman is not capable of doing. People in this century have done far greater things than Lewis and Clark and will continue to do so. People I have talked to on the trail seem as though they could never do what I am doing when in fact practically everyone could if they had the desire and the determination. One factor that has helped tremendously is the boat I am paddling. Is was designed specifically to handle a variety of water conditions and be comfortable to sit in. My Sea Wind is the most comfortable craft I have ever paddled and I sometimes sit in the boat for 10 hours at a time something I don't feel I could do in any other boat. Why be uncomfortable? I was pressed for time reaching the public campground at Holter Dam on Friday to meet Dr. Braun and his family. I had not only 15 miles to paddle but also a dam portage. Since I sent my (Stan's) portage wheels home to save on weight and space, I had to do the portage the old fashioned way, by hand . The portage was about 1/4 mile up a steep incline to the top of the dam. What usually takes me 6 trips to carry everything including my boat only took me three. Thanks to a young man named Tom from Helena who helped haul half of the load. (So I cheated) I paddled up to the campground as Dr. Braun was walking up to greet me. He was joined by his two daughters Ruth and Abbey, as well as two grandkids. He was determined to grill me a steak dinner and give me a spinal adjustment. He is my chiropractor from my hometown and was the one who arranged other chiropractors along the route to help out. The steaks were great but my hip was about 1 inch higher on one side than but was soon put back in place. The only camping space available for us was in the parking lot on black asphalt. I was able to erect my free standing tent there as well. It was without a doubt the flattest camping place I have had the entire journey. By Saturday afternoon I paddled into the "Gates of the Rocky Mountains" named by Meriweather Lewis in 1805. The huge limestone and quartz cliffs rise above the water for over 1100 feet providing a spectacular backdrop for the jet skis and speedboats who's wakes pounded off the sides of the massive cliff walls. I have been here before during the off season with DeeDee and we were the only ones around. It would be nice if they made this canyone a "no wake zone". The noise from the jet skis gave the place an amusement park feel. There was a small tent camp situated in the middle of the canyon in which I pulled in at the same time as Van Goodwin and his wife Honey and children Thomas and Cat in their red canoe. There were very irritated with the lack of respect they received from the jet skis as well. Van is an ex Ranger and has spent time in Iraq fighting in the war. He is also part Nez Perce Indian which is the same tribe that helped Lewis and Clark during there difficult struggle over the mountains. He invited me to a grilled chicken dinner which I gladly accepted. I was also glad that Van didn't serve any military MRE"S (Meals ready to eat) but would have gladly eaten them as well. As I end this update the mass of boats and watercraft are speeding to the marinas as a fast approaching lightning storm is about to descend upon the area. I plan to make Townsend, Montana on Monday and Three Forks by Friday. Anyone wishing to visit me, I will be camped at the state park their with friends on Friday and Saturday. The following day was just a busy with motor boat traffic. No respect with boat wakes. Some speed boats would travel at high speeds within 20 feet creating a wake 4 times the height of my kayak. Now imagine being in a moto boat and having another boat create a wake 4 times the height of their boat? This would be equal to over 15 feet! I'm certain that if they experience a taste of their own medicine they would have a lot more repect with other boats. Several days later Van and his family were waiting for me at Canyon Ferry Resv. and offered to drive me around the dam which saved me a lot more time. Van broke out the tobacco along with the rest of the family and said a prayer and made and offering as I departed across the wind blown body of water. Photo: The Goodwins from Helena, Montana at Canyon Ferry Reserv.

Raising awareness and support for: American Rivers Protecting and restoring our nations rivers.   Lewis & Clark Trail Heritage Foundation Stimulating public appreciation of the Lewis and Clark Expeditions contributions to American heritage and supporting education, research, development, and preservation of the Lewis and Clark experience. Contact: In The Wake Of Discovery® at: info@lewisandclark-2004.com In The Wake Of Discovery ~ 2004 Lewis & Clark Bicentennial Expedition This effort is made possible through the generous contribution and support of the following companies: Please click on their logo below to read more about them or click on Sponsorship page for more information   FoodWorks Natural Foods 412 E. Park Livingston, MT 406-222-8223   Brief Bio: Norman Miller was born and raised in Grayling, Michigan near the banks of the Ausable River. He grew an early interest in the outdoors and history while traveling with his family throughout the U.S and Canada exploring new places. He is a 1985 graduate of Lake Superior State University in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan and currently lives in Livingston, Montana along the famed Yellowstone River. He is the owner of a window cleaning business as well as an eco-tour guide in Zion and Bryce National Parks of Utah. He enjoys skiing, backpacking, canoeing, and exploring the west.   Images of portraits Captain Meriwether Lewis and Captain William Clark by Charles Willson Peale are credited to the National Park Service, Independence National Historical Park - Library, 143 South Third Street, Philadelphia PA 19106 The information contained in this web site is compiled from: Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition: Edited by Reuban Gold Thwaites 1904, Dodd, Mead & Company, New York The Natural History of the Lewis and Clark Expedition: Raymond R. Burroughs, Editor. Michigan State University Press, East Lansing Michigan 41995 ©2003 In The Wake of Discovery Web site created byStar Web Service, Livingston, MT Photo of Norm Miller by Erik Petersen: LivingstonEnterprise, Livingston, Montana