Lewis and Clark 2004 Bicentenial Expedition



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In the Wake of Discovery, Lewis and Clark Bicentennial

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In the Wake of Discovery
L&C-2004
Bicentennial Expedition
PO Box 2004
Livingston, MT 59047
406-222-8016

 

 

 

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August 1-4, 2004



THE U.P. GANG SENDS IT'S BEST TO NORM! BEEN FOLLOWING THE PROGRESS WITH BRAD,TOM PINK AND THE L.S.S.U ALUMNI THAT HAVE REMAINED IN MICHIGAN'S UPPER PENINSULA. KEEP ON PUSHING STORM'IN NORMAN!!! PLANNING ON A COUPLE WEEKS IN MONTANA NEXT JUNE. HOPE WE CAN HOOK UP! TAKE CARE!--DANO


July 31, 1805

"we have a lame crew just now, tow with tumers or bad boils on various parts of them, one with a bad stone bruise, one with his arm accedently dislocated but fortunately well replaced, and a fifth has streigned his back by sliping and falling backwards on the gunwall of the canoe." M. Lewis

Aug 1, 1805

"the mountains are extremely bare of timber and out rout lay through the steep valleys exposed to the heat of the sun without shade and scarcely a breath of air…" M Lewis

Aug 5, 1805

"the river today they found streighter and more rapid even than yesterday, and the labour and difficulty of the navigation was proportionably increased, they therefore proceeded but slowly and with great pain as the men had become very languid from working in the water and many of their feet swolen and so painful that they could scarcely walk." M Lewis

Aug 7, 1805

"Camped on the Lard side above the mouth of a bold running stream 12 yards wide, which we call turf Creek from the number of bogs & quanty of turf in its waters." Wm. Clark

Aug, 10, 1805

"we proceeded on passed a remarkable Clift point on the Stard side about 150 feet high, which clift the Indians call the Beavers head, opposite at 300 yards is a low clift of 50 feet which is a spur from the mountains…" Wm.Clark Wood


The rattlesnake made very little sound as I stood near it while pulling my boat to shore. A faint clicking sound was all it made but was enough to get my attention. As I looked down by my ankle I could see the small snake coiled up in striking position. They say you should move slowly away but my initial reaction was to jump. My leap proved to be effective. After realizing the area was probably crawling with snakes I pushed by boat back into the water only to paddle a few more minutes to a small island where I set up camp in the twilight.

I slowed my pace the last two days to Three Forks since all my friends would not arrive there until Friday evening. I was looking forward to finishing my upstream travel on this long river. The journey has seemed very long and St. Louis seems like another lifetime ago. The last day or so had been similar to the week's prior. I would paddle a short distance and walk my boat through the shallow waters along the edge into the deeper water and repeat this again and again the entire day. Typically I would walk through the water about 3-4 miles each day while paddling 10-12 miles. I have been wearing sandals, which have rubbed the skin off of my ankles due to my walking in the water. I am concerned now that I have to wear heavy hiking boots for the next month and what the constant rubbing on these sores may cause.

My arrival to Three Forks was somewhat uneventful. Since it was Friday morning there was no one to greet me at the boat ramp. A couple was loading their canoe for a day of fishing as I paddled my last stroke on the Missouri. They asked me where I had started and congratulated me with a cold beer from their cooler. As they handed me the ice cold Budweiser, I thought it was very fitting to have a beer brewed in St. Louis where I started 17-weeks ago.

The large rock face overlooking the confluence of the Gallitin, Madison, and Jefferson Rivers was where Lewis climbed to get a view of the surrounding valley and ponder which river to ascend to reach the far off Pacific. I was tempted to climb the 200-foot cliff myself but my desire soon disappeared at the thought of lunch and the fact the rocks were probably home to many rattlesnakes. After locking my boat and belongings to the boat ramp sign, I was offered a ride into town by the park ranger, which was much appreciated. The small town of Three Forks radiated in the high ninety degree temperatures as I located a small cafe on Main Street to grab a bite to eat. I was offered the option to sit outdoors on the patio but declined it for the dark air-conditioned inside. Since I have been outside for 4 months I have grown to appreciate the indoors what few times I have encountered it.

Several of my friends from Livingston, Missoula, West Yellowstone, Bozeman, Gardner, and Yellowstone National Park stopped by over the weekend to visit and welcome me to Three Forks. Several of us camped for two nights at the nearby campground. It was really great to see them all and very much appreciated. Thanks to Hillary Johnson for the 20 pieces of Sushi which I inhaled without even knowing if it was all for me. It was great to see her. I can still remember going to her web design business (Star Web Services) a few years ago with the idea to do an ongoing web site during the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial. My chiropractor Dr. Braun and family camped as well and provided so much, such as a 10 lb. smoked salmon, yummy deserts, and plenty of firewood to last the entire weekend. Thanks for another spinal adjustment too! I was glad to see that my hip was not out of place this time. It was great to see Dave and Christie Meuer, Curt & Chery Loeffler, Jen Heath, Tom Porter, Tom & Katie Woods, Paula Clawson, Terri Nightingale, Jason Lehmann, Dennis & Billy Glick, Bev Dawson, Dave Hahn, Derek Poinsette, Dawn Drottos, Richie Doyle, and DeeDee Fite. (I hope I didn't forget anyone.)

Our camp happened to be where I've encountered the most mosquitoes of the entire journey. Having spent the last few months without the need to wear long pants and shirts at night to avoid the bugs, I had to cover up or be eaten by all the flying pests that seemed to congregate near our camp. Lewis and Clark were troubled by mosquitoes their entire journey, and wrote about them often in their journals. I have found it very strange that I have not encountered very many considering I have camped near the water the entire journey.

During the next 30 days I will be backpacking over the continental divide through the Bitterroot Mountains that border Montana and Idaho. It was through this area that the Corp of Discovery nearly starved. They were fortunate enough to obtain horses from the nearby Indians and also be guided over the mountains along the trails that the Indians have used for hundreds of years. Since it is not possible for me to carry a laptop during my 30-day hike I will not be able to send any photos or updates. I hope to call in a few brief updates as to my location and progress. I may have the opportunity to use the computer at the Salmon, Idaho library when I pass through. If that is the case I will attempt to send a more detailed account During half of my journey over the mountains I will be joined by author and historian Gene Eastman and his wife Mollie. Gene wrote the book entitled "Bitterroot Crossing- Lewis & Clark across the LoLo T rail". Gene has spent over 30 years researching the real route that Lewis and Clark took over the mountains. His understanding of William Clarks maps, journal descriptions, compass bearings, and terminology has resulted in locating the original trail. The Indians have not used the trail since the 1860's when Chief Joseph passed through while heading to Canada. The current Forest Service Trail that crosses over the mountains is actually not the original trail, as many people believe. The "presumed" Lolo Trail was constructed to accommodate horse packers and hikers over the years and is basically a compilation of an 1860's military road, CCC, and Forest Service Trails that are close to the original Indian trail. Gene says the original trail is still visible in many locations and matches up precisely with where William Clark recorded them to be.

Gene and I will be carrying small packs with minimal amount of supplies. The bulk of our supplies (tent & food) will be located at various camps that Mollie Eastman will set up while Gene and I hike the trail. Each evening we will walk off the original trail to the camp, which will be, located close by. The forest if very thick and overgrown with vegetation since it was last traveled by Native Americans. We will be unable to use horses because of this and all our walking will be in difficult terrain. I hope to send an update once I am camped with Gene and Mollie since she will be able to haul my laptop in their truck to each of our nightly camps. I probably will not send any photos until after this section of the trail is completed either in Weippe Prarie or Orofino, Idaho. I am looking forward to walking and traveling the "real" route and not the supposed route that was constructed by the US Forest Service.

As I said earlier, there will be no or few updates until the end of August due to the fact I am unable to bring my laptop along. Hi to all my friends and family in the Grayling, Michigan area. I appreciate the kind words of encouragement!

The photos I am sending with this update are the last few days on the river as I approached Three Forks. As you can see the terrain is very dramatic.

The other photos are: Van, Honey, Kat, and Thomas Davison who helped me with my portage around Canyon Ferry Dam. Hillary Johnson and myself with the high bluff that M. Lewis climbed upon reaching the confluence of the three rivers. Friends from the area. Cement and limstone quarry 1/4 mile from historic Three Forks




Aug 1, Happy Birthday to William Clark! Your incredible mapping skills, outdoorsmanship, leadership, and determination have been greatly admired during this 21st century journey. Thanks and cheers! N


Aug 2

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 08:28:08 -0600 (Mountain Daylight Time)Subject: Update Aug 2

My friend Verlen Kruger passed away last night after suffering with a long bought of cancer. Verlen has been very inspirational and without his encouragement over the years I probably would never have attempted this journey or my 1998 trip to the Arctic.

I first saw and read about Verlen when I was a young child growing up in Grayling, MIchigan. He was passing through town on a 28,000 mile (3 1/2 year) canoe journey throughout North America. I was amazed that so many miles could be traveled by canoe throughout the continent and more amazed that this man who was already in his 60's was attempting such an undertaking.

Back in 1997 when I was making plans to retrace the trail of Alexander Mackenzie through Canada I contacted Verlen at his home along the Grand River in Lansing Michigan. He sent me his book "One Incredible Journey", which was about a canoe trip across Canada he took in the 70's. He signed the book for me along with a few other words that said "If you can dream it, you can do it." Since I had been dreaming about my journey for a long time, his inspiration set the ball rolling for me and fired me up with the desire to do such a journey.

I eventually went to Lansing and paddled with Verlen and purchased one of his solo expedition canoes. I was amazed at the comfort and efficiency his canoes handled. I have been in contact with Verlen over the years. We had occasionally chatted on the phone or wrote one another an email (Verlen didn't like to email, it was too complicated). Prior to my Lewis and Clark journey Verlen offered many words of encouragement and in his voice I could sense that he had a desire to come along. Well, Verlen has come along with me since the start of my journey and will continue to be with me when I reach the Pacific. Take care Verlen and enjoy that big canoe expedition in the sky! You will be missed.

There is a great photo of Verlen paddling in a snowstorm on Lake Superior at the Kruger Canoe web site. Please check it out you can almost see Verlens inspiration in his eyes. http://www.krugercanoes.com Norm


 

August 5-7, 2004

Enjoy the photos from south dakota to montana From Storms to wind bound days
Friends Stan Hanson (White Sea Wind)
Craig Swanson (Orange Kayak)
Bruce and Kathy Kurzhals- Sitting next to tent at camp
Young Fisherman with 70lb Paddlefish
Fort Mandan and Knife River Indian Village inside sod hut
Other scenics along the way.

Aug, 11, 1805

"found the river shallow and rapid, insomuch that the men wer compelled to be in the water a considerable proportion of the day in drageing the canoes over the shouals and riffles." M. Lewis (Near Dillon, Montana)

Aug 12, 1805

"the main stream now after discarding two streams on the left in this valley turns abruptly to the west through a narrow bottom between the moutains. The road was still plain, I therefore did not dispair of shortly finding a passage over the mountains and of taisting the waters of the great Columbia this evening. M. Lewis (Continental Divide at Lemhi Pass, MT)

Aug 13, 1805

"we had marched about 2 miles when we met a party of about 60 warriors mounted on excellent horses who came in nearly full speed, when they arrived I advanced towards them with the flag leaving my gun with the party about 50 paces behind me." M. Lewis

Aug, 16, 1805

"I sent Drewyer and Shields before this morning in order to kill some meat as neither the Indians nor oursleves had any thing to eat." M. Lewis

Aug 17, 1805

" I had not proceeded on one mile before I saw at a distance several Indians on horsback comeing towards me, the interpreter & Squaw who were before me at some distance danced for the joyful sight, and she made signs to me that they were her nation…" Wm Clark (Sacagewea meets her people including her brother Chief Cameahwait)

Aug 18, 1805

Purchased of the Indians three horses for which we gave a chiefs coat some handkerchiefs a shirt legins & a fiew arrow points &c." Wm Clark


 

August 8-12, 2004




Dear Jamie,

I received a call from Norm. He said he made it over Lemhi pass (ele. 7,373ft. and Lost Trail Pass ( ele. 7,014 ft) Camped near where Lewis and Clark Did on September 3, 1805. Hiked up to the actual camp and said it was a brutal hike, very steep. He said he hopes to meet up with Gene Eastman on Friday the 13th. He said there were a number of forest fires in the area, but he is doing well. He wanted me to pass this information to you . Thanks sister Gail
To: repoman@voyager.net Subject: update: Bitter Root Valley Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 14:50:17 -0600

Monday- Sorry for the short update. I happened upon the use of a computer along the Bitterroot Valley in Hamilton, Montana. All is well. My walking legs are getting more in shape. The first day out was brutal. My pack was about 60 lbs. I attempted to "go light weight" without a tent. This works great, however the pack is still heavy. I have a better appreciation for mountain travel especially by horse like Lewis and Clark used. I will send a more detailed update with photos from my friend Graeme Shaws' house in Lolo but in short...The terrain I have walked over, I have a hard time imagining a horse going through it. At times I found the areas so steep with loose rock that I had a hard time staying on my own two feet. I sure would not want to riding atop a 1000 lb.+ horse.

I touched the headwaters and source of the Missouri as Lewis discovered it. (This is actually not the true source of the Missouri but it is none the less a branch of the river in which they followed since St. Louis until it became as wide as my boot is long). I can just imagine the joy the expedition experienced upon reaching it. I can also imagine the almost "sick" feeling they had when the looked over Lemhi Pass and seeing the Rocky Mountains stretch out before them to the horizon. They had thought it would be a 1 day's journey across them. I also attempted to locate the route to the controversial September 3rd, 1805 camp. I was using the map descriptions by historian and author Gene Eastman as well as the compass bearing and maps drawn by William Clark. In places I believe I found as old "Indian" trail that they had used. It was still visible in portions, matched up with Clarks map as well as his description of its location. This was not a "game trail" since, the animal use trails the go from food and water sources where as the Indian Trails stayed high on ridges and were more in a direct line to avoid confrontations with their enemies etc.

The terrain was relentless with thick trees and downed deadfall. Lots of bear sign (scat and areas where the tree stumps were ripped up in search of food.)The weather is cool and even chilly at night. Several forest fires are burning in the region with large crews of firefighters and helicopter hovering above with 300 gallon buckets of water suspended under them. I had another close encounter with a LARGE rattlesnake. I may have stepped on it. I was not sure but I immediately heard rattling and saw it coiled near my foot. Yikes! More details in a day or two. I am going to take all my paddling gear and boat over to Orofino, Idaho later in the week via truck and will again begin hiking with Gene Eastman this Friday over the Lolo Trail. Norm

August 11th, 2004


Several helicopter were transporting fire crews to the nearby forest fire that was started by a recent lightning strike. Very little smoke was present as the crews had it pretty much contained. I was leery about hiking towards the Lewis and Clark camp of September3, 1805 due to the possibility of being near a fire. I checked with the local fire crews and it was much further away than where I would be so I headed out through the forest.

It was a cool day with temperatures only in the 70's. Using a topographic maps with the possible areas marked in black ink as to where the camp was located I felt confident I would be in the vicinity of where they spent a difficult night in the snow. The terrain was very steep with loose shale and scree making my progress very slow. Several bighorn sheep tracks were present but none were spotted. I eventually made it to the area where I thought looked like a possible "camping" place. It was the only flat area around and looked big enough for 30+ men and horses. All the major historians have disagreed as to this particular camps location and its true location may never be determined.

I arrived in Lolo, Montana yesterday and stayed the night with my friend Graeme whom I worked with in Yellowstone years ago. Graeme's house is located a few miles from Travelers Rest where Lewis and Clark stayed a few days before heading over the Lolo Trail into what is now Idaho. The original fire ring and latrine were located last year by scientist using a device that detects mercury in the soil. While the expedition camped here many of the men were ill and given Dr. Rush's Pills, that contained mercury, which eventually ended up at the place, used as a "bathroom". The place was busy with tourist many arriving by bus and guided through the area that is now a state park.

I will meet up with Gene Eastman this Friday and spend the next 2 weeks traveling over the Lolo trail. I will not be able to send any updates since I won't be carrying my laptop but will try and send a bunch of photos once I get to Orofino, Idaho.

The photos I am sending with this update are from Lemhi Pass, Lost Trail Pass, and Sula Pass.

Lemhi Pass is where Lewis and Clark reached the headwaters of the Missouri River and began their journey towards the Columbia River. Lost trail pass is the steep rugged terrain they passed over the first part of September and nearly froze to death. Sula Pass area is where they entered the Bitterroot Valley. There is also a photo of a Peace Medal that was given to the Indian Tribes by Lewis and Clark as well as a photo of the Travelers Rest area.

 


 

August 23-27, 2004

He introduced himself as Eb Tide from Russellville, Mo. His long white hair and beard along with his ability to recite Robert Service poetry gave him the appearance of having just stepped off the Klondike Gold rush Trail in Dawson City, Yukon. He is well known almost to cult status in the hiking world as the Nimble Nomad. At 67 years old Eb left St. Louis on foot back in May and is headed for the Pacific Ocean. A retired optometrist by trade Eb has traded in the simple uncluttered life by traveling on foot and backpack throughout North America. He has walked the Appalachian Trail, Key West to Newfoundland and Missouri to San Diego logging somewhere between 20-30 miles daily. His backpack weighed only 11 pounds which is almost unbelievable considering my camera equipment alone weighs 13 lbs. He poked fun at my heavy pack and water soaked boots as I tried to warm my cold and wet body up near the roaring fire. Sparks flew high like fireflies while the cold rain tried to beat out the flames. I had just descended down through steep terrain in hail and rain from what Lewis and Clark called "Snowbank Camp". It was here that they camped one miserable night using snow to cook with for there was no water nearby. My traveling companion for the last week is author and historian Gene Eastman. Gene has extensively researched the historic Lolo (Nee-Mee-Poo and Lewis and Clark) Trail over the Bitterroots Mountains. This trail also known as the Lolo Trail was in a sense the highway system for the Nez Perce and other Indian Tribes traveling to the summer Buffalo hunting grounds in the east and the fall Salmon fisheries along the Columbia. It was this trail that Lewis and Clark and the Corp. of Discovery traveled by horse over the snowy mountains to the waters of the Columbia led by an Indian guide whom they called "old Toby". Lewis and Clark nearly died from the cold and starvation only to survive by eating rations of portable soup, candles, and a few horses they had shot.

The Lolo Trail is perhaps our countries oldest if not the longest intact ancient trail, having been used for centuries by Native Americans. Gene along with his wife Mollie have been researching the location and history of the Lolo Trail as well as trying to get the U.S. Forest Service to recognize this trail as a significant part of our national heritage. The Eastman's have stacks of old maps, historic journals, aerial photos, Forest Service records and other information dating back to the 1800's. Over the last few decades the Clearwater National Forest has initiated Trail Obliteration projects which have literally been destroying portions of the Lolo Trail. These projects are a violation of the National Heritage Prevention Act of 1966 and the Protection of Historic and Cultural Properties Law (Title 36-CFR). Mollie has a 1995 Forest Service handbook stating that they intend to spend as much money covering and destroying abandoned trail as they have in the past in creating trails. I have witnessed for myself areas of the trail that have been filled in with logs and dirt as well as entire areas where trees were cut down across the old trail. Please read the note at the bottom of this page and click on the link to Gene Eastmans report on the destruction of this National Historic Landmark by the U.S. Forest Service.

In the week I have spent hiking the trail with Eastman I have witnessed huge clearcuts in which skidder roads were built overtop the historic trail. The U.S. Forest Service claims the original trail doesn't exist. The trail that is "advertised" as the real Lolo Trail is actually a Forest Service improvement trail or system of trails that have slowly evolved over time beginning in the 1930's. The original trail was used by the Indian nations up until the late 1800's. In 1866 Dr. Bird and Major Truax received a contract to construct the Virginia City to Lewiston Wagon Road. Instead of a road they constructed a packhorse trail over the mountains which parallels the Lolo Trail and sometimes even uses the original trail itself. In the 1907-1930's with the development of the U.S. Forest Service, trails were constructed using portions of the original trail but making it more user friendly by installing switchbacks and shortening sections to avoid the often steep terrain the Indians traveled on. Over the last half century it is obvious to see that the Lolo Trail is something the Clearwater National Forest District wished was not on their land. Mollie states that the Forest Service is "making the trail the driving road"; so that once the bicentennial is over they will be able to log both sides of the road like they have over the past 50 years. They are in a sense gradually moving the real trail, creating a false trail, destroying the real trail, and then claiming the "fake" trail is where Lewis and Clark walked. My interest in history goes back to my childhood growing up in Grayling, Michigan. I learned so much about history by going to the places where the events actually took place such as the Little Bighorn Battlefield, Gettysburg, Amelia Earhart's childhood home, Edison's laboratory, or the Indian ruins of Mesa Verde and Chaco Canyon. It was at these historic places where the events unfolded and became a part of our history and culture. If someone decided to move the Little Bighorn Battlefield several miles from its original location and then stated that "this is where Custer was slain by the Sioux", it would have little meaning to me. I would be very disappointed if that was the case with our historical sites around the country. Who wants to visit the site of a historical event when it is actually located somewhere else? If your going to say that an event happened "here", then it better have happened there and not some other location. I would feel cheated out of my Lewis and Clark experience if I was not walking on the real Lolo Trail.

Eastman has walked hundreds of miles using old maps; Clarks compass recordings, and Lewis & Clark journal descriptions to locate the remains of the Lolo, Nee-Mee-Poo, and Lewis and Clark Trail (all the same trail). In the week I have been walking I have clearly seen the evidence of the trails existence. The trail tread is still visible on the ground even though it has not been used for over a hundred years. The trail has felt the pounding of horse hooves for possibly as far back as 4000 years creating a visible trail evident over time. At times I had to literally get on my hands and knees to see the trail ditch under the thick growth of brush and huckleberry bushes but it was there still visible with little or no vegetation growing in it. Other times the trail seemed lost to logging and skidder roads only to be located once again at the other end where the forest has been undisturbed. Gene has come to understand the great map maker William Clark whose maps many claim to be childish scribbling when in fact upon close examination they almost seem three dimensional. When listening to Eastman describe the smallest of symbols on Clark's maps I almost feel as if he was with Clark when he created them. Another key ingredient to Gene's recipe is his wife Mollie. Born near where Lewis and Clark grew up in Virginia she has been able to decipher the meaning of certain terms used to describe creeks and streams. For example when Clark states "we crossed a run to the right", Mollie knows that a "Run" is a small stream that takes three steps to cross. A "spring" is smaller. A "spring run" equals 1 step across, a "drain" is a place where water runs or streams flow together. These are all terms Mollie has come to know while growing up in Virginia. Each part of the country has its own meanings for words such as how we describe a "soda" and a "pop" to mean the same thing. Knowing these measurements has played a key roll in locating the direction the Corp. Of Discovery traveled in 1805 as well as many of their camp locations of which over half are misplaced by the Forest Service. Many sites don't even come close to matching the journal descriptions by William Clark. Gene has showed me original trail tread of not only the Lolo Trail but also that of the Bird Truax 1866 Trail, and the 1904 -1930's Forest Service Improvement Trails. We encountered the "three hacked blaze" mark of the Bird Truax expedition on an old tree in which Gene took a core sample of the new growth to determine how long ago it was cut. It was 138 years old! Gene pointed out literally hundred of pealed trees in which the Indians cut the cambium layer of the bark to obtain sugar and nutrients during times of hunger. I could still see evidence of the knife cuts along the scars. These scars never heal and almost become indestructible even to forest fires. Oft times when the trail seemed too vague to follow we would encounter more pealed trees indicating we were close if not already on the trail.

I could almost hear Gene's brain working as I watched him walk through the forest. Carrying a GPS in one hand and an aluminum hiking staff in the other, his camera vest stuffed full of notes, maps, GPS coordinates, compass, binoculars, and a tree ring aging increment borer. Gene seems as if he has been chosen by a higher calling in this important project. Staring at the ground looking for any sign of the trail he is so focused on his work that my questions sometimes go unanswered. This may be partly due to the fact that he is hard of hearing but I think its more like he has drifted back to 1805 and is traveling with Lewis and Clark. Gene is a retired game warden and is very woodsmen savvy. He and Mollie practically spend nearly their entire summer months researching and walking the old trail. Gene says "If I think I'm on the trail I'm not, but if I know I'm on the trail I am." At camp Gene carries an old briefcase with a bumper sticker on the outside that says

"I Love DOS". The brief case is full of old maps, and thousands of GPS coordinates which are the locations and evidence of the trails existence. Gene also has thousands of photos which document the trail as well as of the trail obliteration projects by the U.S. Forest Service. Gene seems to have enough evidence of Forest Service abuse and mis-management that would bring a smile to any Heritage lawyers face.

I hope that through public awareness the REAL Lolo trail will be recognized as a Historic Landmark and preserved as such. With the bicentennial celebration now upon us it is important that the people know that the publicized Lolo Trail is not the one traveled by the American Indians for centuries or by Lewis and Clark in 1805/06, but a reconstructed trail system. There is much more information that I could write about this topic that would probably fill a book of its own but I hope this is just the stepping stone for the process to begin.

The hail began to fall faster as the cold rain dripped off the rim of my hat. My body completely wet from walking through chest deep huckleberry bushes we pressed on towards Cayuse Junction. An hour before we were on the summit of Mt. Marcy where Gene claims Lewis and Clark camped on Sept. 15, 1805. His location matches the L&C journals; Clarks compass bearing as well as the distance they walked from the previous night's encampment. As I sat on a fallen log eating an orange, I could almost see William Clark standing on the small outcrop of rock nearby looking around at the 360 degree view. I could almost feel their hunger as they were scarce on food and had to kill another horse to eat. Tired, wet, hungry, focused on their mission, they proceeded on. So did we.

After an hour I became warm again around the blazing fire. Mollie kept pumping me full of hot coffee and snack food which helped boost my tired mood. In the morning Eb was packed and determined to walk 30 miles. I reached out my hand to shake his goodbye as he extended his forward to meet mine. With our grips firm and true we gazed into one another's eyes without uttering a single word. I could read in his eyes and feel in his grip all that needed to be said and I'm sure he the same of mine. After what seemed like several minutes we released our grips, he turned and headed west.

Gene and Mollie's book: "Bitterroot Crossing; Lewis and Clark across the Lolo Trail" is published by University of Idaho Library 2002 can be purchased through the University of Idaho Library or on Amazon. They are currently working on there 2nd book as well as the second edition of the first book.

Eb can be reached via his hiking website at www.nimblewillnomad.com Please check out his web site and encourage him along the way. He hopes to reach the waters of the Pacific by the middle of September. He also has published three books which can be purchased on his web site. One is entitled "A Million Steps" (or something like that).

The 3 photos with this update are:

Me at Whitehouse Pond where L&C passed in Sept 1805, named after expedition member Joseph Whitehouse

Eb, Me, and Gene Eastman at Cayuse Junction in the Bitterroots

Me alongside Indian pealed tree. This is one of hundreds we have seen. Oft times the knife scar can still be seen too.


Sept 12, 1804

"Crossed a mountain 8 miles with out water & rencamped on a hill side on the creek after decending a long steep mountain…" Wm Clark

Sept 14, 1805

"a cloudy day in the valies it rained and hailed, on the top of the mountains some snow fell we set out early and crossed a high mountain on the right of the creek for 6 miles to the forks of the Glade Creek." Wm Clark (Site of present day Powell Ranger Station)

Sept 15, 1805

"From this mountain I could observe high ruged mountains in every direction as far as I could see. With the greatest exertion we could only make 12 miles up this mountain…we melted snow to drink, and cook our horse flesh to eat." Wm Clark

Sept 16, 1805

"I have been wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life, indeed I was at one time fearfull my feet would freeze in the thin Mockirsons which I wore" Wm Clark (Near Indian Post Office Lake, Clearwater National Forest)

Sept 17, 1805

"snow falling from the trees which kept us wet all after noon passed several high ruged knobs and deveral dreans & springs passing to the right…" Wm Clark

Sept 18, 1805

"we dined & suped on a skant proportion of portable soupe, a few canester of which, a little bears oil and about 20 lbs of candles form our stock of provisions." M. Lewis

Sept 19, 1805

"Set out early proceeded on up the Hungry Creek passing through a small glade at 6 miles at which place we found a horse. I derected him killed and hung up for the party…" Wm Clark

Sept 20, 1805 "descended the mountains to a leavel pine countrey proceeded on through a butifull countrey for three miles to a small plain in which I found many Indian lodges…"

"They call themselves Cho pun-nish or Pierced noses. Their diolect appears verry different from the flat heads…" Wm Clark (Present site of Weippe Prairie, Idaho)

Sept 21, 1805

"I collected a horse load of roots & 3 sammon & sent R. Fields with one Indian to meet Capt. Lewis at 4 oclock set out with the other men to the river, passed thro a fine pine countrey decended a steep ruged hill verry long to a small river which comes from our left…" Wm. Clark (Present site of Orofino, Idahao)


 

August 28-31, 2004

HELP PROTECT THE LOLO TRAIL THAT LEWIS AND CLARK FOLLOWED Read the truth about this historic National Landmark and how it is being destroyed by the Clearwater National Forest Service. Historian and author Gene Eastman has compiled all the facts in this incredible report: Please read by clicking here:
The Historic Lolo Trail that Lewis and Clark followed is a National Historic Landmark
that had been used by Native Americans for centuries. The Clearwater National Forest District
claims the "original trail" does not exist and has been detroying the historic trail through trail obliteration projects, clearcutting, and poor forestry managemant.
Please read this detailed report by author and historian Gene Eastman who has spent years researching both on the ground and in the office
on the destruction of this National Historic Landmark. Help save the Lolo Trail!

 

 

Raising awareness and support for:

American Rivers
American Rivers
Protecting and restoring our nations rivers.
 

Lewis & Clark Trail Heritage Foundation
Stimulating public appreciation of the Lewis and Clark Expeditions contributions to American heritage and supporting education, research, development, and preservation of the Lewis and Clark experience.

Contact: In The Wake Of Discovery® at:
info@lewisandclark-2004.com

In The Wake Of Discovery ~ 2004 Lewis & Clark Bicentennial Expedition
This effort is made possible through the generous contribution and support of the following companies: Please click on their logo below to read more about them or click on Sponsorship page for more information

Star Web Services

Mountain Air Sports

 

FoodWorks
Natural Foods
412 E. Park
Livingston, MT
406-222-8223

 

Brief Bio: Norman Miller was born and raised in Grayling, Michigan near the banks of the Ausable River. He grew an early interest in the outdoors and history while traveling with his family throughout the U.S and Canada exploring new places. He is a 1985 graduate of Lake Superior State University in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan and currently lives in Livingston, Montana along the famed Yellowstone River. He is the owner of a window cleaning business as well as an eco-tour guide in Zion and Bryce National Parks of Utah. He enjoys skiing, backpacking, canoeing, and exploring the west.

 

Images of portraits Captain Meriwether Lewis and Captain William Clark by Charles Willson Peale are credited to the National Park Service, Independence National Historical Park - Library, 143 South Third Street, Philadelphia PA 19106
The information contained in this web site is compiled from: Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition:
Edited by Reuban Gold Thwaites 1904, Dodd, Mead & Company, New York The Natural History of the Lewis and Clark Expedition: Raymond R. Burroughs, Editor. Michigan State University Press, East Lansing Michigan 41995

©2003 In The Wake of Discovery
Web site created byStar Web Service, Livingston, MT
Photo of Norm Miller by Erik Petersen: LivingstonEnterprise, Livingston, Montana