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August 1-4, 2004
THE U.P. GANG SENDS IT'S BEST TO NORM! BEEN FOLLOWING THE
PROGRESS WITH BRAD,TOM PINK AND THE L.S.S.U ALUMNI THAT HAVE
REMAINED IN MICHIGAN'S UPPER PENINSULA. KEEP ON PUSHING
STORM'IN NORMAN!!! PLANNING ON A COUPLE WEEKS IN MONTANA NEXT
JUNE. HOPE WE CAN HOOK UP! TAKE CARE!--DANO
July 31, 1805
"we have a lame crew just now, tow with tumers or bad boils
on various parts of them, one with a bad stone bruise, one with
his arm accedently dislocated but fortunately well replaced, and
a fifth has streigned his back by sliping and falling backwards
on the gunwall of the canoe." M. Lewis
Aug 1, 1805
"the mountains are extremely bare of timber and out rout lay
through the steep valleys exposed to the heat of the sun without
shade and scarcely a breath of air…" M Lewis
Aug 5, 1805
"the river today they found streighter and more rapid even
than yesterday, and the labour and difficulty of the navigation
was proportionably increased, they therefore proceeded but slowly
and with great pain as the men had become very languid from
working in the water and many of their feet swolen and so painful
that they could scarcely walk." M Lewis
Aug 7, 1805
"Camped on the Lard side above the mouth of a bold running
stream 12 yards wide, which we call turf Creek from the number of
bogs & quanty of turf in its waters." Wm. Clark
Aug, 10, 1805
"we proceeded on passed a remarkable Clift point on the
Stard side about 150 feet high, which clift the Indians call the
Beavers head, opposite at 300 yards is a low clift of 50 feet
which is a spur from the mountains…" Wm.Clark
Wood
The rattlesnake made very little sound as I stood near it
while pulling my boat to shore. A faint clicking sound was all it
made but was enough to get my attention. As I looked down by my
ankle I could see the small snake coiled up in striking position.
They say you should move slowly away but my initial reaction was
to jump. My leap proved to be effective. After realizing the area
was probably crawling with snakes I pushed by boat back into the
water only to paddle a few more minutes to a small island where I
set up camp in the twilight.
I slowed my pace the last two days to Three Forks since all my
friends would not arrive there until Friday evening. I was
looking forward to finishing my upstream travel on this long
river. The journey has seemed very long and St. Louis seems like
another lifetime ago. The last day or so had been similar to the
week's prior. I would paddle a short distance and walk my
boat through the shallow waters along the edge into the deeper
water and repeat this again and again the entire day. Typically I
would walk through the water about 3-4 miles each day while
paddling 10-12 miles. I have been wearing sandals, which have
rubbed the skin off of my ankles due to my walking in the water.
I am concerned now that I have to wear heavy hiking boots for the
next month and what the constant rubbing on these sores may
cause.
My arrival to Three Forks was somewhat uneventful. Since it was
Friday morning there was no one to greet me at the boat ramp. A
couple was loading their canoe for a day of fishing as I paddled
my last stroke on the Missouri. They asked me where I had started
and congratulated me with a cold beer from their cooler. As they
handed me the ice cold Budweiser, I thought it was very fitting
to have a beer brewed in St. Louis where I started 17-weeks
ago.
The large rock face overlooking the confluence of the Gallitin,
Madison, and Jefferson Rivers was where Lewis climbed to get a
view of the surrounding valley and ponder which river to ascend
to reach the far off Pacific. I was tempted to climb the 200-foot
cliff myself but my desire soon disappeared at the thought of
lunch and the fact the rocks were probably home to many
rattlesnakes. After locking my boat and belongings to the boat
ramp sign, I was offered a ride into town by the park ranger,
which was much appreciated. The small town of Three Forks
radiated in the high ninety degree temperatures as I located a
small cafe on Main Street to grab a bite to eat. I was offered
the option to sit outdoors on the patio but declined it for the
dark air-conditioned inside. Since I have been outside for 4
months I have grown to appreciate the indoors what few times I
have encountered it.
Several of my friends from Livingston, Missoula, West
Yellowstone, Bozeman, Gardner, and Yellowstone National Park
stopped by over the weekend to visit and welcome me to Three
Forks. Several of us camped for two nights at the nearby
campground. It was really great to see them all and very much
appreciated. Thanks to Hillary Johnson for the 20 pieces of Sushi
which I inhaled without even knowing if it was all for me. It was
great to see her. I can still remember going to her web design
business (Star Web Services) a few years ago with the idea to do
an ongoing web site during the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial. My
chiropractor Dr. Braun and family camped as well and provided so
much, such as a 10 lb. smoked salmon, yummy deserts, and plenty
of firewood to last the entire weekend. Thanks for another spinal
adjustment too! I was glad to see that my hip was not out of
place this time. It was great to see Dave and Christie Meuer,
Curt & Chery Loeffler, Jen Heath, Tom Porter, Tom & Katie
Woods, Paula Clawson, Terri Nightingale, Jason Lehmann, Dennis
& Billy Glick, Bev Dawson, Dave Hahn, Derek Poinsette, Dawn
Drottos, Richie Doyle, and DeeDee Fite. (I hope I didn't
forget anyone.)
Our camp happened to be where I've encountered the most
mosquitoes of the entire journey. Having spent the last few
months without the need to wear long pants and shirts at night to
avoid the bugs, I had to cover up or be eaten by all the flying
pests that seemed to congregate near our camp. Lewis and Clark
were troubled by mosquitoes their entire journey, and wrote about
them often in their journals. I have found it very strange that I
have not encountered very many considering I have camped near the
water the entire journey.
During the next 30 days I will be backpacking over the
continental divide through the Bitterroot Mountains that border
Montana and Idaho. It was through this area that the Corp of
Discovery nearly starved. They were fortunate enough to obtain
horses from the nearby Indians and also be guided over the
mountains along the trails that the Indians have used for
hundreds of years. Since it is not possible for me to carry a
laptop during my 30-day hike I will not be able to send any
photos or updates. I hope to call in a few brief updates as to my
location and progress. I may have the opportunity to use the
computer at the Salmon, Idaho library when I pass through. If
that is the case I will attempt to send a more detailed account
During half of my journey over the mountains I will be joined by
author and historian Gene Eastman and his wife Mollie. Gene wrote
the book entitled "Bitterroot Crossing- Lewis & Clark
across the LoLo T rail". Gene has spent over 30 years
researching the real route that Lewis and Clark took over the
mountains. His understanding of William Clarks maps, journal
descriptions, compass bearings, and terminology has resulted in
locating the original trail. The Indians have not used the trail
since the 1860's when Chief Joseph passed through while
heading to Canada. The current Forest Service Trail that crosses
over the mountains is actually not the original trail, as many
people believe. The "presumed" Lolo Trail was
constructed to accommodate horse packers and hikers over the
years and is basically a compilation of an 1860's military
road, CCC, and Forest Service Trails that are close to the
original Indian trail. Gene says the original trail is still
visible in many locations and matches up precisely with where
William Clark recorded them to be.
Gene and I will be carrying small packs with minimal amount of
supplies. The bulk of our supplies (tent & food) will be
located at various camps that Mollie Eastman will set up while
Gene and I hike the trail. Each evening we will walk off the
original trail to the camp, which will be, located close by. The
forest if very thick and overgrown with vegetation since it was
last traveled by Native Americans. We will be unable to use
horses because of this and all our walking will be in difficult
terrain. I hope to send an update once I am camped with Gene and
Mollie since she will be able to haul my laptop in their truck to
each of our nightly camps. I probably will not send any photos
until after this section of the trail is completed either in
Weippe Prarie or Orofino, Idaho. I am looking forward to walking
and traveling the "real" route and not the supposed
route that was constructed by the US Forest Service.
As I said earlier, there will be no or few updates until the end
of August due to the fact I am unable to bring my laptop along.
Hi to all my friends and family in the Grayling, Michigan area. I
appreciate the kind words of encouragement!
The photos I am sending with this update are the last few days
on the river as I approached Three Forks. As you can see the
terrain is very dramatic.
The other photos are: Van, Honey, Kat, and Thomas Davison who
helped me with my portage around Canyon Ferry Dam. Hillary
Johnson and myself with the high bluff that M. Lewis climbed upon
reaching the confluence of the three rivers. Friends from the
area. Cement and limstone quarry 1/4 mile from historic Three
Forks |
Aug 1, Happy Birthday to William Clark! Your incredible
mapping skills, outdoorsmanship, leadership, and determination
have been greatly admired during this 21st century journey.
Thanks and cheers! N
Aug 2
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 08:28:08 -0600 (Mountain Daylight
Time)Subject: Update Aug 2
My friend Verlen Kruger passed away last night after suffering
with a long bought of cancer. Verlen has been very inspirational
and without his encouragement over the years I probably would
never have attempted this journey or my 1998 trip to the
Arctic.
I first saw and read about Verlen when I was a young child
growing up in Grayling, MIchigan. He was passing through town on
a 28,000 mile (3 1/2 year) canoe journey throughout North
America. I was amazed that so many miles could be traveled by
canoe throughout the continent and more amazed that this man who
was already in his 60's was attempting such an
undertaking.
Back in 1997 when I was making plans to retrace the trail of
Alexander Mackenzie through Canada I contacted Verlen at his home
along the Grand River in Lansing Michigan. He sent me his book
"One Incredible Journey", which was about a canoe trip
across Canada he took in the 70's. He signed the book for me
along with a few other words that said "If you can dream it,
you can do it." Since I had been dreaming about my journey
for a long time, his inspiration set the ball rolling for me and
fired me up with the desire to do such a journey.
I eventually went to Lansing and paddled with Verlen and
purchased one of his solo expedition canoes. I was amazed at the
comfort and efficiency his canoes handled. I have been in contact
with Verlen over the years. We had occasionally chatted on the
phone or wrote one another an email (Verlen didn't like to
email, it was too complicated). Prior to my Lewis and Clark
journey Verlen offered many words of encouragement and in his
voice I could sense that he had a desire to come along. Well,
Verlen has come along with me since the start of my journey and
will continue to be with me when I reach the Pacific. Take care
Verlen and enjoy that big canoe expedition in the sky! You will
be missed.
There is a great photo of Verlen paddling in a snowstorm on Lake
Superior at the Kruger Canoe web site. Please check it out you
can almost see Verlens inspiration in his eyes. http://www.krugercanoes.com
Norm
August 5-7, 2004
Enjoy the photos from south dakota to montana From Storms to
wind bound days
Friends Stan Hanson (White Sea Wind)
Craig Swanson (Orange Kayak)
Bruce and Kathy Kurzhals- Sitting next to tent at camp
Young Fisherman with 70lb Paddlefish
Fort Mandan and Knife River Indian Village inside sod hut
Other scenics along the way. |
 |
Aug, 11, 1805
"found the river shallow and rapid, insomuch that the men
wer compelled to be in the water a considerable proportion of the
day in drageing the canoes over the shouals and riffles." M.
Lewis (Near Dillon, Montana)
Aug 12, 1805
"the main stream now after discarding two streams on the
left in this valley turns abruptly to the west through a narrow
bottom between the moutains. The road was still plain, I
therefore did not dispair of shortly finding a passage over the
mountains and of taisting the waters of the great Columbia this
evening. M. Lewis (Continental Divide at Lemhi Pass, MT)
Aug 13, 1805
"we had marched about 2 miles when we met a party of about
60 warriors mounted on excellent horses who came in nearly full
speed, when they arrived I advanced towards them with the flag
leaving my gun with the party about 50 paces behind me." M.
Lewis
Aug, 16, 1805
"I sent Drewyer and Shields before this morning in order to
kill some meat as neither the Indians nor oursleves had any thing
to eat." M. Lewis
Aug 17, 1805
" I had not proceeded on one mile before I saw at a distance
several Indians on horsback comeing towards me, the interpreter
& Squaw who were before me at some distance danced for the
joyful sight, and she made signs to me that they were her
nation…" Wm Clark (Sacagewea meets her people
including her brother Chief Cameahwait)
Aug 18, 1805
Purchased of the Indians three horses for which we gave a chiefs
coat some handkerchiefs a shirt legins & a fiew arrow points
&c." Wm Clark
August 8-12, 2004
Dear Jamie,
I received a call from Norm. He said he made it over Lemhi pass
(ele. 7,373ft. and Lost Trail Pass ( ele. 7,014 ft) Camped near
where Lewis and Clark Did on September 3, 1805. Hiked up to the
actual camp and said it was a brutal hike, very steep. He said he
hopes to meet up with Gene Eastman on Friday the 13th. He said
there were a number of forest fires in the area, but he is doing
well. He wanted me to pass this information to you . Thanks
sister Gail |
To: repoman@voyager.net Subject: update: Bitter Root Valley
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 14:50:17 -0600
Monday- Sorry for the short update. I happened upon the use of a
computer along the Bitterroot Valley in Hamilton, Montana. All is
well. My walking legs are getting more in shape. The first day
out was brutal. My pack was about 60 lbs. I attempted to "go
light weight" without a tent. This works great, however the
pack is still heavy. I have a better appreciation for mountain
travel especially by horse like Lewis and Clark used. I will send
a more detailed update with photos from my friend Graeme
Shaws' house in Lolo but in short...The terrain I have walked
over, I have a hard time imagining a horse going through it. At
times I found the areas so steep with loose rock that I had a
hard time staying on my own two feet. I sure would not want to
riding atop a 1000 lb.+ horse.
I touched the headwaters and source of the Missouri as Lewis
discovered it. (This is actually not the true source of the
Missouri but it is none the less a branch of the river in which
they followed since St. Louis until it became as wide as my boot
is long). I can just imagine the joy the expedition experienced
upon reaching it. I can also imagine the almost "sick"
feeling they had when the looked over Lemhi Pass and seeing the
Rocky Mountains stretch out before them to the horizon. They had
thought it would be a 1 day's journey across them. I also
attempted to locate the route to the controversial September 3rd,
1805 camp. I was using the map descriptions by historian and
author Gene Eastman as well as the compass bearing and maps drawn
by William Clark. In places I believe I found as old
"Indian" trail that they had used. It was still visible
in portions, matched up with Clarks map as well as his
description of its location. This was not a "game
trail" since, the animal use trails the go from food and
water sources where as the Indian Trails stayed high on ridges
and were more in a direct line to avoid confrontations with their
enemies etc.
The terrain was relentless with thick trees and downed deadfall.
Lots of bear sign (scat and areas where the tree stumps were
ripped up in search of food.)The weather is cool and even chilly
at night. Several forest fires are burning in the region with
large crews of firefighters and helicopter hovering above with
300 gallon buckets of water suspended under them. I had another
close encounter with a LARGE rattlesnake. I may have stepped on
it. I was not sure but I immediately heard rattling and saw it
coiled near my foot. Yikes! More details in a day or two. I am
going to take all my paddling gear and boat over to Orofino,
Idaho later in the week via truck and will again begin hiking
with Gene Eastman this Friday over the Lolo Trail. Norm |
August 11th, 2004
Several helicopter were transporting fire crews to the nearby
forest fire that was started by a recent lightning strike. Very
little smoke was present as the crews had it pretty much
contained. I was leery about hiking towards the Lewis and Clark
camp of September3, 1805 due to the possibility of being near a
fire. I checked with the local fire crews and it was much further
away than where I would be so I headed out through the
forest.
It was a cool day with temperatures only in the 70's. Using
a topographic maps with the possible areas marked in black ink as
to where the camp was located I felt confident I would be in the
vicinity of where they spent a difficult night in the snow. The
terrain was very steep with loose shale and scree making my
progress very slow. Several bighorn sheep tracks were present but
none were spotted. I eventually made it to the area where I
thought looked like a possible "camping" place. It was
the only flat area around and looked big enough for 30+ men and
horses. All the major historians have disagreed as to this
particular camps location and its true location may never be
determined.
I arrived in Lolo, Montana yesterday and stayed the night with my
friend Graeme whom I worked with in Yellowstone years ago.
Graeme's house is located a few miles from Travelers Rest
where Lewis and Clark stayed a few days before heading over the
Lolo Trail into what is now Idaho. The original fire ring and
latrine were located last year by scientist using a device that
detects mercury in the soil. While the expedition camped here
many of the men were ill and given Dr. Rush's Pills, that
contained mercury, which eventually ended up at the place, used
as a "bathroom". The place was busy with tourist many
arriving by bus and guided through the area that is now a state
park.
I will meet up with Gene Eastman this Friday and spend the next 2
weeks traveling over the Lolo trail. I will not be able to send
any updates since I won't be carrying my laptop but will try
and send a bunch of photos once I get to Orofino, Idaho.
The photos I am sending with this update are from Lemhi Pass,
Lost Trail Pass, and Sula Pass.
Lemhi Pass is where Lewis and Clark reached the headwaters of the
Missouri River and began their journey towards the Columbia
River. Lost trail pass is the steep rugged terrain they passed
over the first part of September and nearly froze to death. Sula
Pass area is where they entered the Bitterroot Valley. There is
also a photo of a Peace Medal that was given to the Indian Tribes
by Lewis and Clark as well as a photo of the Travelers Rest
area. |
 |
August 23-27, 2004
He introduced himself as Eb Tide from Russellville, Mo. His
long white hair and beard along with his ability to recite Robert
Service poetry gave him the appearance of having just stepped off
the Klondike Gold rush Trail in Dawson City, Yukon. He is well
known almost to cult status in the hiking world as the Nimble
Nomad. At 67 years old Eb left St. Louis on foot back in May and
is headed for the Pacific Ocean. A retired optometrist by trade
Eb has traded in the simple uncluttered life by traveling on foot
and backpack throughout North America. He has walked the
Appalachian Trail, Key West to Newfoundland and Missouri to San
Diego logging somewhere between 20-30 miles daily. His backpack
weighed only 11 pounds which is almost unbelievable considering
my camera equipment alone weighs 13 lbs. He poked fun at my heavy
pack and water soaked boots as I tried to warm my cold and wet
body up near the roaring fire. Sparks flew high like fireflies
while the cold rain tried to beat out the flames. I had just
descended down through steep terrain in hail and rain from what
Lewis and Clark called "Snowbank Camp". It was here
that they camped one miserable night using snow to cook with for
there was no water nearby. My traveling companion for the last
week is author and historian Gene Eastman. Gene has extensively
researched the historic Lolo (Nee-Mee-Poo and Lewis and Clark)
Trail over the Bitterroots Mountains. This trail also known as
the Lolo Trail was in a sense the highway system for the Nez
Perce and other Indian Tribes traveling to the summer Buffalo
hunting grounds in the east and the fall Salmon fisheries along
the Columbia. It was this trail that Lewis and Clark and the
Corp. of Discovery traveled by horse over the snowy mountains to
the waters of the Columbia led by an Indian guide whom they
called "old Toby". Lewis and Clark nearly died from the
cold and starvation only to survive by eating rations of portable
soup, candles, and a few horses they had shot.
The Lolo Trail is perhaps our countries oldest if not the longest
intact ancient trail, having been used for centuries by Native Americans.
Gene along with his wife Mollie have been researching the location
and history of the Lolo Trail as well as trying to get the U.S.
Forest Service to recognize this trail as a significant part of
our national heritage. The Eastman's have stacks of old maps,
historic journals, aerial photos, Forest Service records and other
information dating back to the 1800's. Over the last few decades
the Clearwater National Forest has initiated Trail Obliteration
projects which have literally been destroying portions of the Lolo
Trail. These projects are a violation of the National Heritage Prevention
Act of 1966 and the Protection of Historic and Cultural Properties
Law (Title 36-CFR). Mollie has a 1995 Forest Service handbook stating
that they intend to spend as much money covering and destroying
abandoned trail as they have in the past in creating trails. I have
witnessed for myself areas of the trail that have been filled in
with logs and dirt as well as entire areas where trees were cut
down across the old trail. Please read the
note at the bottom of this page and click on the link to Gene Eastmans
report on the destruction of this National Historic Landmark by
the U.S. Forest Service.
In the week I have spent hiking the trail with Eastman I
have witnessed huge clearcuts in which skidder roads were built
overtop the historic trail. The U.S. Forest Service claims the original
trail doesn't exist. The trail that is "advertised"
as the real Lolo Trail is actually a Forest Service improvement
trail or system of trails that have slowly evolved over time beginning
in the 1930's. The original trail was used by the Indian nations
up until the late 1800's. In 1866 Dr. Bird and Major Truax received
a contract to construct the Virginia City to Lewiston Wagon Road.
Instead of a road they constructed a packhorse trail over the mountains
which parallels the Lolo Trail and sometimes even uses the original
trail itself. In the 1907-1930's with the development of the
U.S. Forest Service, trails were constructed using portions of the
original trail but making it more user friendly by installing switchbacks
and shortening sections to avoid the often steep terrain the Indians
traveled on. Over the last half century it is obvious to see that
the Lolo Trail is something the Clearwater National Forest District
wished was not on their land. Mollie states that the Forest Service
is "making the trail the driving road"; so that once the
bicentennial is over they will be able to log both sides of the
road like they have over the past 50 years. They are in a sense
gradually moving the real trail, creating a false trail, destroying
the real trail, and then claiming the "fake" trail is
where Lewis and Clark walked. My interest in history goes back to
my childhood growing up in Grayling, Michigan. I learned so much
about history by going to the places where the events actually took
place such as the Little Bighorn Battlefield, Gettysburg, Amelia
Earhart's childhood home, Edison's laboratory, or the Indian
ruins of Mesa Verde and Chaco Canyon. It was at these historic places
where the events unfolded and became a part of our history and culture.
If someone decided to move the Little Bighorn Battlefield several
miles from its original location and then stated that "this
is where Custer was slain by the Sioux", it would have little
meaning to me. I would be very disappointed if that was the case
with our historical sites around the country. Who wants to visit
the site of a historical event when it is actually located somewhere
else? If your going to say that an event happened "here",
then it better have happened there and not some other location.
I would feel cheated out of my Lewis and Clark experience if I was
not walking on the real Lolo Trail.
Eastman has walked hundreds of miles using old maps; Clarks
compass recordings, and Lewis & Clark journal descriptions to
locate the remains of the Lolo, Nee-Mee-Poo, and Lewis and Clark
Trail (all the same trail). In the week I have been walking I
have clearly seen the evidence of the trails existence. The trail
tread is still visible on the ground even though it has not been
used for over a hundred years. The trail has felt the pounding of
horse hooves for possibly as far back as 4000 years creating a
visible trail evident over time. At times I had to literally get
on my hands and knees to see the trail ditch under the thick
growth of brush and huckleberry bushes but it was there still
visible with little or no vegetation growing in it. Other times
the trail seemed lost to logging and skidder roads only to be
located once again at the other end where the forest has been
undisturbed. Gene has come to understand the great map maker
William Clark whose maps many claim to be childish scribbling
when in fact upon close examination they almost seem three
dimensional. When listening to Eastman describe the smallest of
symbols on Clark's maps I almost feel as if he was with Clark
when he created them. Another key ingredient to Gene's recipe
is his wife Mollie. Born near where Lewis and Clark grew up in
Virginia she has been able to decipher the meaning of certain
terms used to describe creeks and streams. For example when Clark
states "we crossed a run to the right", Mollie knows
that a "Run" is a small stream that takes three steps
to cross. A "spring" is smaller. A "spring
run" equals 1 step across, a "drain" is a place
where water runs or streams flow together. These are all terms
Mollie has come to know while growing up in Virginia. Each part
of the country has its own meanings for words such as how we
describe a "soda" and a "pop" to mean the
same thing. Knowing these measurements has played a key roll in
locating the direction the Corp. Of Discovery traveled in 1805 as
well as many of their camp locations of which over half are
misplaced by the Forest Service. Many sites don't even come
close to matching the journal descriptions by William Clark. Gene
has showed me original trail tread of not only the Lolo Trail but
also that of the Bird Truax 1866 Trail, and the 1904 -1930's
Forest Service Improvement Trails. We encountered the "three
hacked blaze" mark of the Bird Truax expedition on an old
tree in which Gene took a core sample of the new growth to
determine how long ago it was cut. It was 138 years old! Gene
pointed out literally hundred of pealed trees in which the
Indians cut the cambium layer of the bark to obtain sugar and
nutrients during times of hunger. I could still see evidence of
the knife cuts along the scars. These scars never heal and almost
become indestructible even to forest fires. Oft times when the
trail seemed too vague to follow we would encounter more pealed
trees indicating we were close if not already on the trail.
I could almost hear Gene's brain working as I watched him
walk through the forest. Carrying a GPS in one hand and an
aluminum hiking staff in the other, his camera vest stuffed full
of notes, maps, GPS coordinates, compass, binoculars, and a tree
ring aging increment borer. Gene seems as if he has been chosen
by a higher calling in this important project. Staring at the
ground looking for any sign of the trail he is so focused on his
work that my questions sometimes go unanswered. This may be
partly due to the fact that he is hard of hearing but I think its
more like he has drifted back to 1805 and is traveling with Lewis
and Clark. Gene is a retired game warden and is very woodsmen
savvy. He and Mollie practically spend nearly their entire summer
months researching and walking the old trail. Gene says "If
I think I'm on the trail I'm not, but if I know I'm
on the trail I am." At camp Gene carries an old briefcase
with a bumper sticker on the outside that says
"I Love DOS". The brief case is full of old maps, and
thousands of GPS coordinates which are the locations and evidence
of the trails existence. Gene also has thousands of photos which
document the trail as well as of the trail obliteration projects
by the U.S. Forest Service. Gene seems to have enough evidence of
Forest Service abuse and mis-management that would bring a smile
to any Heritage lawyers face.
I hope that through public awareness the REAL Lolo trail will be
recognized as a Historic Landmark and preserved as such. With the
bicentennial celebration now upon us it is important that the
people know that the publicized Lolo Trail is not the one
traveled by the American Indians for centuries or by Lewis and
Clark in 1805/06, but a reconstructed trail system. There is much
more information that I could write about this topic that would
probably fill a book of its own but I hope this is just the
stepping stone for the process to begin.
The hail began to fall faster as the cold rain dripped off the
rim of my hat. My body completely wet from walking through chest
deep huckleberry bushes we pressed on towards Cayuse Junction. An
hour before we were on the summit of Mt. Marcy where Gene claims
Lewis and Clark camped on Sept. 15, 1805. His location matches
the L&C journals; Clarks compass bearing as well as the
distance they walked from the previous night's encampment. As
I sat on a fallen log eating an orange, I could almost see
William Clark standing on the small outcrop of rock nearby
looking around at the 360 degree view. I could almost feel their
hunger as they were scarce on food and had to kill another horse
to eat. Tired, wet, hungry, focused on their mission, they
proceeded on. So did we.
After an hour I became warm again around the blazing fire.
Mollie kept pumping me full of hot coffee and snack food which
helped boost my tired mood. In the morning Eb was packed and
determined to walk 30 miles. I reached out my hand to shake his
goodbye as he extended his forward to meet mine. With our grips
firm and true we gazed into one another's eyes without
uttering a single word. I could read in his eyes and feel in his
grip all that needed to be said and I'm sure he the same of
mine. After what seemed like several minutes we released our
grips, he turned and headed west.
Gene and Mollie's book: "Bitterroot Crossing; Lewis and
Clark across the Lolo Trail" is published by University of
Idaho Library 2002 can be purchased through the University of
Idaho Library or on Amazon. They are currently working on there
2nd book as well as the second edition of the first book.
Eb can be reached via his hiking website at
www.nimblewillnomad.com Please check out his web site and
encourage him along the way. He hopes to reach the waters of the
Pacific by the middle of September. He also has published three
books which can be purchased on his web site. One is entitled
"A Million Steps" (or something like that).
The 3 photos with this update are:
Me at Whitehouse Pond where L&C passed in Sept 1805, named
after expedition member Joseph Whitehouse
Eb, Me, and Gene Eastman at Cayuse Junction in the
Bitterroots
Me alongside Indian pealed tree. This is one of hundreds we have
seen. Oft times the knife scar can still be seen too.
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Sept 12, 1804
"Crossed a mountain 8 miles with out water & rencamped
on a hill side on the creek after decending a long steep
mountain…" Wm Clark
Sept 14, 1805
"a cloudy day in the valies it rained and hailed, on the top
of the mountains some snow fell we set out early and crossed a
high mountain on the right of the creek for 6 miles to the forks
of the Glade Creek." Wm Clark (Site of present day Powell
Ranger Station)
Sept 15, 1805
"From this mountain I could observe high ruged mountains in
every direction as far as I could see. With the greatest exertion
we could only make 12 miles up this mountain…we melted
snow to drink, and cook our horse flesh to eat." Wm
Clark
Sept 16, 1805
"I have been wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in
my life, indeed I was at one time fearfull my feet would freeze
in the thin Mockirsons which I wore" Wm Clark (Near Indian
Post Office Lake, Clearwater National Forest)
Sept 17, 1805
"snow falling from the trees which kept us wet all after
noon passed several high ruged knobs and deveral dreans &
springs passing to the right…" Wm Clark
Sept 18, 1805
"we dined & suped on a skant proportion of portable
soupe, a few canester of which, a little bears oil and about 20
lbs of candles form our stock of provisions." M. Lewis
Sept 19, 1805
"Set out early proceeded on up the Hungry Creek passing
through a small glade at 6 miles at which place we found a horse.
I derected him killed and hung up for the party…" Wm
Clark
Sept 20, 1805 "descended the mountains to a leavel pine
countrey proceeded on through a butifull countrey for three miles
to a small plain in which I found many Indian
lodges…"
"They call themselves Cho pun-nish or Pierced noses. Their
diolect appears verry different from the flat heads…"
Wm Clark (Present site of Weippe Prairie, Idaho)
Sept 21, 1805
"I collected a horse load of roots & 3 sammon & sent
R. Fields with one Indian to meet Capt. Lewis at 4 oclock set out
with the other men to the river, passed thro a fine pine countrey
decended a steep ruged hill verry long to a small river which
comes from our left…" Wm. Clark (Present site of
Orofino, Idahao)
August 28-31, 2004
HELP PROTECT THE LOLO TRAIL THAT LEWIS
AND CLARK FOLLOWED Read the truth about this historic National Landmark
and how it is being destroyed by the Clearwater National Forest
Service. Historian and author Gene Eastman has compiled all the
facts in this incredible report: Please read by clicking here:
The Historic Lolo Trail that Lewis and Clark followed is
a National Historic Landmark
that had been used by Native Americans for centuries. The Clearwater
National Forest District
claims the "original trail" does not exist and has
been detroying the historic trail through trail obliteration projects,
clearcutting, and poor forestry managemant.
Please read this detailed report by author and historian Gene
Eastman who has spent years researching both on the ground and in
the office
on the destruction of this National Historic Landmark. Help
save the Lolo Trail! |
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