
What's involved in planning a journey?
Update: November 18, 04
Please read the latest information
on the "Updates" Page.
During my crossing of the Lolo Trail
between Montana and Idaho, I joined author and historian Gene Eastman.
Gene along with his wife Mollie recently wrote the book entitled
" Bitterroot Crossing- Lewis & Clark Across the Lolo
Trail" (Northwest Historical Manuscript Series, University
of Idaho Library 2002). During my planning of the overland route,
I thought that the location of the old Indian trail that Lewis and
Clark traveled on had been documented as to it's location along
with the encampment of the Corp of Discovery. I was wrong! Of the
5 or so major researchers on the topic they all disagree in many
areas as to its location. After reading Eastman's book, L&C's
journal, Clark's map and compass bearings, and finally actually
walking the trail with Gene, I'm convinced that Eastman's work is
accurate. His understanding of Clark's maps, time and distance travel
by horse, and years of hiking the region has enabled him to accurately
locate the trail and camp location. I was always led to believe
that the current Lolo Trail created by the U.S. Forest Service was
constructed over the original trail. This is far from the truth.
In short, the trail was created and recreated over the last 100
years to accommodate modern day horse packers, hikers, logging,
and car access. Eastman's location of the trail and camps fits exactly
with the descriptions of the L&C's journals, Clarks maps, and
compass bearings. The sites listed by the U.S. Forest Service as
"Camps" are actually not the true locations. Some of the
historical signs posted lie far from the actual sites. It is my
hope that by photo documenting the route these sites may someday
be changed to the correct location and to correct any false sense
of historical inaccuracy. Gene has written a well researched paper
regarding the U.S Forest Service's destruction of the original Lolo
Trail. His research is well documented going back as far as the
1866 Bird Truax Expedition and early Forest Service records. Please
click
here for Gene's report which can be printed off for your
enjoyment. You wouldn't move George Washingstons home at Mt. Vernon
to Kansas and claim it to be the site of George Washingtons home
would you? Why do this with the Lolo Trail? That is just what the
U.S Forest Service has been doing.
I've added many photo's to the "Plant
& Animal" page. Check it out to see just a few observed
by Lewis and Clark two centuries ago.
I have been asked
numerous questions regarding my journey, below are a few of the
questions and answers.
How did you update your web site
from the river? I carried a satellite phone which is the same
thing as a modem. It is different than a cell phone by transmitting
messages via orbiting satellites to my web host. The satellites
are picked up anywhere in the world. I also carried a laptop computer
which I was able to record all my journals as well as download my
digital photos to. This nformation was then sent via the satellite
to the web host. The quickest way a message was sent in 1804-1806
was determined how fast a horse or boat could travel which often
was several months!
How did you recharge your laptop, satellite phone, and digital
camera while on the river? I used two solar panels supplied
by Iowa Thin Films Technology.
When I was paddlingI could not use the panels but had to wait until
I was on shore. I usually recharged during wind bound days when
there was plenty of sunshine. I also had the opportunity to recharge
my equipment at businesses, and state park campgrounds where there
was an electrical outlet.
Why did you paddle upstream? First of all, I wanted to paddle
the same route as Lewis and Clark, so this would include paddling
the length of the Missouri upstream. I wanted to experience the
same hardships as the original explorers in order to fully understand
what they went through. Since I was also sharing the entire experience
with others via this web site, it is important for me that they
also knew what it is like. The canoe I used is very light and efficient
and was built by Kruger
Canoes in Michigan. Its design allowed me to paddle comfortably
the many upstream miles I encountered. My paddle I used weighs only
7 oz. and built by ZRE in
New York. This paddle weighs more than 4 pounds LESS than the ones
used by the Corp of Discovery.
How long did it take you to paddle the Missouri and what were
some of the problems you encountered? It took me 17 weeks to
reach Three Forks, Montana from St. Louis.A portion of the Missouri
I ended up paddling downstream due to a situation in which I capsized
and nearly lost everything including my like. I opted to paddle
about 700 miles downstream to avoid the wing dikes in which I had
the accident at. These wing dikes have a very strong current that
forces you and your canoe against them which can often pin your
boat and capsizing it. I encountered 12 dams on the Missouri in
which I had to portage using a portage cart or via the help of some
generous people along the way. Wind is another major problem on
the river. It can blow for days on end creating huge waves especially
on the reservoirs along the Missouri. Of the 6-months I was gone
the wind did not blow only 10 days!
How did you take your food and did you resupply along the way?
My solo expedition canoe easily carried over 2 months worth
of dried and dehydrated camping foods. However, I do not take more
than 1 months worth at a time to help cut down on weight. I prepared
meals and food ahead of time during the previous months before I
departed using a food dehydrator. I then prepackage and sent shipments
of food (1 month supply) to various U.S. Post office's along the
route with the help of my girl friend DeeDee. Once I arrived at
the town, I picked up the food and re-packed it in my canoe. Since
I did not carry a cooler, I didn't have the convenience of "fresh
fruits and vegetables". I passed through over 350 towns along
the route, where I was albe to purchase any needed or desired items
along the way. I did not hunt or fish for various reasons.
How did you get over the continental divide and what did you
do with your canoe? Once I reached Three Forks, Montana which
is where the official start of the Missouri River is I had my canoe
taken by truck to a friends in orofino, Idaho where it was stored
until I arrived there in September for the downstream portion of
my journey. I had origianally planned to paddle to Dillion, Montana
but due to the drought and low water conditions on the Jefferson
and Beaverhead Rivers in which I would have had to paddle on, there
was not enough water to actually paddle. The rivers were typically
under 6 inches deep on average. I would have ended up dragging my
boat the entire way which I was short on time.
Did you camp in a tent the entire way? I originally had planned
on camping every night but I ended up staying in a couple of motels
as well as a couple of friends homes along the way. I took advantage
of these comforts to do laundy, dry my tents and sleeping bags,
recharge all my batteries, send updates to the web site, and to
get a hot shower.
Did you accept help from anyone? I had the help with some
nice people around several of the dams. They either helped carry
my gear around or we used there vehicles to transport it around
the dams. Several people provided some great meals, chiropractic
adjustments, a lift to town, or words of encounragement.
How did you bath, do laundry and wash dishes?I used the showers
at various campgrounds along the way. I went three weeks before
my first shower and probably had fewer than 15 showers in the six
months I was gone. I used the laundry facilities in various towns
or friends homes. I washed all dishes in the rivers.
What type of boat did you paddle? It is a solo expedition
canoe which is sort of a combination sea kayak and canoe. It was
custom built by canoe legend Verlen Kruger (Kruger Canoes) in Michigan.
Verlen had died part way through my journey due to cancer. The model
canoe is called a "Sea Wind". It is very strong, durable,
roomy, and comfortable to sit and paddle in for long hours. The
canoe has a foot controlled rudder to aid in steering. I use a single
blade paddle rather than a longer and heavier double bladed paddle.
I can easily store 250lbs. Of gear including a laptop, cameras,
tent, sleeping bag, clothing and food.
Why do you use the word "discovery" in your title when
the region was discovered long ago? I use the word "discovery"
in reference to what the L&C expedition were known as, which
was the Corp of Discovery. President Jefferson had asked them to
record all of there observations including plant, animal,geology,
Native Nation cultures, and rivers. Since there were no written
records of any of these new findings at the time, L&C agreed
to record them for the benefit of future generations. Most all of
the plant and animals however had been known and used by the Native
people for thousands of years, but no written record was done until
the journals of L&C. If it wasn't for the knowledge of the Native
people of the plants and animals, the expedition would probably
have starved.
Planning the journey:
(Written prior to my departure)
While following the route of explorer Alexander
Mackenzie to the Arctic Ocean in 1998, I felt others would be interested
in seeing the beautiful and remote wilderness I encountered while
paddling through Canada. See Paddle Magazine Article about my
Arctic paddle journey in 1998:
(http://www.paddlermagazine.com/issues/2000_2/article_2.shtml
)
It was shortly after this journey that I began to consider paddling
the Lewis and Clark trail. I didn't know a great deal about the
history of this expedition or the fact the bicentennial was fast
approaching. As I began to research the event I discovered the 200th
anniversary celebration would be taking place between 2003-2006.
Ideas and opportunities began to appear like dandelions on a lawn
after a spring rain. With the fast growing interest in the Internet,
I thought that it would be the prefect means to share this event
with others. I want to make "you" feel you are in the
canoe with me paddling and hiking to sites discovered by Lewis and
Clark 200 years earlier. In my research I discovered that this event
would be the 1st bicentennial celebrated on the World Wide Web.
Fate was soon sealed in the fact that I knew I would somehow bring
the Lewis and Clark Expedition to the computer screen.
One day I stumbled upon the books my Martin Plamondon
II entitled "Lewis
and Clark Trial Maps Volume I-III" and was amazed
at the intricate details put together in its creation. It was through
these maps that one truly experiences the Corp of Discovery. (See
Maps Section).
Martin diligently and painstakingly organized and compiled the detailed
maps of Lewis and Clark and overlapped them with modern U.S.G.S.
Topographical maps. I was in awe at the changes along the route.
Two hundred years of flooding, the construction of dams, dikes,
power lines, bridges, and towns now paint a different picture of
the Lewis and Clark Trail. By using a combination of both maps,
I realized I could pinpoint many of the camps and landmarks discovered
by the Corp.
As I approach my departure date in March of 2004,
a wealth of information and logistics need to come together. This
web site will continue to be updated with information, especially
during the journey itself. I plan to download journal and photo
entries weekly. The route over the continental divide will be a
challenge to plan since some of the original trail now lies on private
property. I will attempt to gain access from landowners when possible
otherwise I will travel the route avoiding such areas.
My support in the Lewis
and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation and American
Rivers Organization will continue. I will be looking at ways
to raise contributions and awareness to their cause. I hope you
will visit their web sites and support their work too. It will be
through cooperation and education on all levels that the Lewis and
Clark Trial will be protected and preserved for future generations.
Food preparation will be time consuming and expensive.
I will require a diet of over 4000 calories per day for six months.
Much of the food will be prepared and dehydrated by friends and
myself and will be sent to various checkpoints along the route where
I will pick them up when I arrive. I support organic farming and
non-processed foods, which are far superior and more beneficial
to my health. Some of my food will be purchased along the route
in various towns and cities I travel through.
With as many as 25 million people expected to partake with some
sort of Lewis and Clark celebration over the next 3 years, it has
been a challenge to plan. Many state and local organizations and
business's have been overwhelmed with peoples interest with the
Lewis and Clark Bicentennial that I often wait long periods for
a response.